Matzo Polenta

Many years ago I decided to develop a Passover version of polenta — what my grandma called mamaliga — using matzo meal instead of corn meal.

The plain, version was beyond awful. My daughter said it tasted like a box.

But (never one to waste food) I mixed in some golden brown fried onions, celery and mushrooms, let the mixture chill inside a loaf pan, and when it was cold, I cut the loaf into slices and fried them until they were hot and crispy.

Perfection! A delicious side dish during Passover.

MATZO MEAL “POLENTA” CRISPS

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 large stalk celery, chopped

• 2 cups chopped mushrooms

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed herbs such as dill, basil, rosemary, thyme

• 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

• 1 cup water

• 1 cup matzo meal

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup grated Fontina cheese, optional

• vegetable oil and/or butter for frying

Lightly grease a 9”x5”x3” loaf pan. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Add the mushrooms, parsley and herbs and and cook for another 3-4 minutes or until all the liquid has evaporated from the pan. Set aside to cool slightly. Bring the stock and water to a boil in a large saucepan. Whisk constantly as you gradually add the matzo meal and cook for about 2-3 minutes or until the mixture is thick. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally for another 3-4 minutes or until the mixture is very thick. Stir in the vegetable mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in the cheese of used. Spoon the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Refrigerate until cold, at least one hour. Unmold the loaf onto a cutting board and cut into 3/4-inch slices. Heat the vegetable oil and/or butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Cook the slices a few at a time, for 2-4 minutes per side, or until crispy. Makes 6-8 servings

Roasted Lemon-Rosemary Potatoes

Roasted Lemon-Rosemary Potatoes

So here it is, the last day of February 2024. The last day of National Potato Lovers Month.

Really folks, I don’t need anyone to declare a month for loving potatoes. Anyone who knows me knows that potato is my favorite, #1, “last thing I want to eat before I die” food.

However, in honor of National Potato Lovers Month, here’s one of the zillion potato recipes I love: crispy roasted potatoes with some citrusy lemon tang and a sprinkle of rosemary.

ROASTED Lemon-Rosemary POTATOES  

• 2 pounds all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the potato cubes in a bowl. Add the garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and rosemary and toss to distribute the ingredients evenly. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the potato mixture on the parchment lined sheet, spreading the cubes into a single layer. Roast for 15 minutes. Toss the potatoes and continue to roast for about another 15 minutes or until the potatoes are crispy and golden brown.

Makes 4 servings

Cole Slaw with Beet Greens

I bought the freshest, most gorgeous beets recently and used the bulbs for some recipes, but — what to do with the greens?

The greens were also crisp and perfect, as if they were just harvested.

However, Ed hates beet greens. I’ve cooked them any number of ways to no avail.

Truth to tell, beet greens are not my favorite either.

But I hate wasting food.

So I shredded the greens, shredded some cabbage, mixed them all together and made them into Cole Slaw.

PERFECT!

Not only did the beet greens add some flavor, they also provided a lovely color, which I usually get from parsley — but I didn’t have parsley, so it all worked out deliciously.

Cole Slaw with Beet Greens

• 1/2 medium green cabbage, shredded

• 2 cups shredded red cabbage

• 1 bunch beet greens, shredded

• 2 medium carrots, grated

• 3/4 cup mayonnaise

• 5 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 1 teaspoon sugar

Place the cabbages, beet greens and carrots in a large bowl and toss to distribute the ingredients evenly. In a bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard and sugar together and pour over the vegetables. Toss the ingredients and let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 8 servings

Potato Salad with Fresh Herbs

There is no end to the ways you can make potato salad. Start with cooked (boiled, roasted) waxy potatoes (like baby Yukon gold or red bliss) and then:

• peel or not peel — it’s up to you

• use them alone or with other solid ingredients such as chopped bell pepper, celery and/or some kind of onion (scallion, chive, shallot, etc.), thawed frozen peas, hard cooked egg chunks, cooked beans or chick peas, capers, anchovies, pickles — and so on. You can even add leftover cooked fish, poultry or meat to make a dinner salad.

• season the salad with chopped fresh herbs (rosemary, oregano, dill, thyme and such), dried herbs, chopped chili pepper, spices such as curry powder, Worcestershire sauce, hot pepper sauce, Dijon mustard, wasabi, horseradish — etc. etc. etc.

• dress the salad with: oil (olive, avocado, peanut, etc.) and vinegar (white or red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, Balsamic) or some other acidic liquid such as lemon juice. For a richer flavor add some mayo, plain yogurt, buttermilk or dairy sour cream.

You get the point — I could write an entire book devoted to potato salad. These are just a few ideas.

Yesterday I taught a class about potato salad for the New Canaan YMCA. This is one of the versions I made for the class.

Happy summer although, I’m sure you know, potato salad is never out of season.

Potato Salad with Fresh Herbs

• 2 pounds small waxy potatoes

• lightly salted water

• 1/4 cup mayo

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2-3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 2-3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley or other herbs (such as rosemary, oregano, thyme, dill, marjoram, etc.)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potatoes (with their skins intact) in a saucepan, cover with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until tender. Drain under cold water and peel, if desired. Cut the potatoes into bite-size pieces and place in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, olive oil, wine vinegar and mustard together until the mixture is uniform in color. Pour over the potatoes. Sprinkle with the herbs and salt and pepper if desired. Toss the ingredients and let rest at least 1 hour before serving.

Makes 6-8 servings

Roasted Pineapple Salad with Avocado, Arugula and Greens

We eat salads throughout the year but have them much more often when the weather gets warm. Frequently I’ll toss together some greens, dress them with vinaigrette and it’s done.

But — in the summer, when the tomatoes are good, I’ll add one (or a few baby tomatoes).

If I have a ripe avocado, that gets thrown in.

Leftover veggies, occasionally.

Croutons, sometimes.

You get the picture right?

Salads are among the most versatile and flexible of recipes.

So, this week, when I went to prepare a salad for dinner I opened the fridge to find the remnants of a cut up pineapple. And I decided to use them in the place of croutons. Same look — cut-up cubes — but I roasted and caramelized the pieces (thanks to a bit of honey or maple syrup) and this addition of lightly sweet, roasted fruit, took the salad into a completely new, different and delicious direction. Sweet (pineapple), creamy (avocado), bitter (arugula) all in balance.

When we finished I realized that I could also have added a few roasted cashews.

Next time.

Roasted Pineapple Salad with Avocado, Arugula and Greens

• 2 cups cut up bite size pineapple chunks

• 1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup

• 2 cups packed cut up salad greens (about 3 ounces)

• 1 cup packed baby arugula (about 1-1/2 ounces)

• 1 peeled avocado, cut into bite size pieces

• 1/4 cup chopped red onion

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

• Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the pineapple on the baking sheet. Pour the honey or maple syrup over the fruit, toss and roast for about 20 minutes, turning the pieces once or twice, or until they are lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool. When cool, place in a bowl. Add the salad greens, arugula, avocado and red onion and toss the ingredients. Pour in the olive oil and toss the ingredients. Pour in the vinegar and toss. Season to taste with Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper.

Makes 4-6 servings

Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Carrot Fries Redux: convection or air fryer?

I’ve been experimenting with my air fryer and — I know people will vigorously disagree with me, but —- I’m not as big a fan as others seem to be.

Granted — vegetables come out really good: crispy, tender, attractive. And the cooking is relatively quick. I’ve also been successful airfrying unbreaded chicken wing parts, shnitzel and other items (e.g. grilled cheese). It’s also terrific and handy for heating hors d’oeuvre.

But other foods have been a disaster. “Fried chicken” (more on that in another post), for example. Sorry folks, no, it doesn’t taste like or have the texture of actual fried fried chicken.

Latkes? Absolutely not. The pan fried latkes were perfect (more on that in another post) and the airfryer ones went right into the garbage. They were leaden, not crisp, not even completely cooked no matter how many ways I tried.

Carrots? Perfect. The photo above shows carrots made in my convection oven (then dressed with Balsamic vinegar and chives) and the bottom photo shows air fried carrots. Taste, texture both terrific. So, yay for the airfryer

BUT:

• even though I have a large airfryer (Breville), there is a limit to the amount of carrots and other vegetables that I can cook at one time. So, while it’s perfect when I’m making dinner for just Ed and me or maybe when there’s two other people, it’s useless when I have the family (11 of us)

• there’s more to clean up: the fry basket plus wherever the drips from food happen as opposed to removing the parchment paper I use when I “oven fry” on a jelly roll pan in my convection oven

• the airfryer is quicker but not substantially: about 15 minutes for the carrots compared to 20 minutes in the convection oven (although it must be said that I used twice as many carrots when I cooked them by convection).

  Anyway, that’s my take. I will continue to experiment!

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Apples and Cranberries

I usually make mashed sweet potatoes of some sort for Thanksgiving. It’s easy (one of my recipes has 3 ingredients), I can make it ahead and I can vary the seasonings from year to year. I can serve them plain or with marshmallows on top.

But, as anyone who knows me knows — I don’t like to cook and/or eat the same food over and over again, so I always tinker a bit and add a new dish or two to a holiday menu.

This year, instead of mashed sweet potatoes I am making this sweet potato/apple combo. I’ve cooked it several times in the last few weeks, to get it right. The flavor combo is perfect: sweet vegetable, tangy fruit; and the texture is nice too: tender sweet potatoes and softened but still firm apple.

Best of all — I can still prep all of it beforehand. It’s also an easy side dish and a nice change from the usual.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Apples and Cranberries

• 3 medium sweet potatoes

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 3 tablespoons maple syrup or honey

• cinnamon, salt

• Aleppo (or cayenne) pepper, optional

• 2 apples, peeled and cut into bite sized pieces

• 1/4 cup dried cranberries

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Peel the sweet potatoes, cut them into bite size pieces and place on the baking sheet. Pour the vegetable oil and maple syrup or honey over the pieces and toss to coat them. Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon, salt and Aleppo pepper if desired. Roast for 12-15 minutes, turning the potatoes once or twice, or until softened. Add the apples and dried cranberries, toss and continue to roast for another 12-15 minutes or until the potatoes and apples are crispy and tender.

Makes 6 servings

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pumpkin Seed Oil

I’ve done some reading about the health benefits (or potential health benefits) of pumpkin seed oil. It can (maybe) slow down hair loss. It is good (maybe) for your skin, for eye health and heart health.

But really, I got a bottle of the stuff in a fancy condiment store, so I was more interested in how and what I could cook with it.

It has an unmistakable roasted-pumpkin seed-nutty flavor. It’s expensive too.

On the other hand, a small amoiunt can make all the difference to salad dressing, on top of roasted vegetables, into vegetable or hearty meat soup and so on.

One of the best recipes I’ve tried: roasted Brussels Sprouts with a dressing that includes a bit of pumpkin seed oil. Think this dish for Sukkot or Thanksgiving.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pumpkin Seed Oil

• 2 dozen medium-large Brussels sprouts (about one pound)

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 thick scallions, chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

• 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or crushed red pepper; or use a sprinkle of ground cayenne pepper)

• salt

• 1-1/2 tablespoons pumpkin seed oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degreesF. Wash the Brussels sprouts, then cut them in half (if very large, cut into quarters). Place them on a baking sheet. Pour the olive oil over the sprouts and toss the vegetable to coat all surfaces. Scatter the scallion and garlic over the sprouts. Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper and salt to taste. Roast for about 20 minutes, turning the sprouts once or twice, or until the vegetable is browned and there are some crispy leaves. Remove from the oven, spoon into a serving dish and drizzle the pumpkin seed oil over the sprouts.

Makes 4 servings

Labor Day Potato Salad

Well that went fast!

Summer I mean.

Here it is, Labor Day weekend. I’m starting to get ready for the Jewish holidays, but not before one last “summer” barbecue.

Here’s a good dairy-free, mayonnaise-free potato salad to go along with anything else you might be serving. I have to confess thought that occasionally I will mix in 2-3 tablespoons of mayonnaise if I am serving people who I know prefer their potato salad creamier.

Labor Day Potato Salad

• 2 pounds new potatoes or small red Bliss potatoes

• 6 tablespoons white wine (or vegetable stock)

• 2 thick scallions, chopped

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, savory, oregano, thyme, rosemary 

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 2-3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise, optional

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and cook for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. When they are cool enough to handle but still warm, peel the potatoes and cut them into bite sized pieces. Place the potatoes in a bowl. Pour in the wine, add the scallions and herbs and toss the ingredients together. In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, white wine vinegar and mustard (add 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise if desired). Pour over the potatoes and toss the ingredients. Sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest at least 15 minutes before serving. Best at room temperature.

Makes 6-8 servings