Matzo Balls for Passover

The torch has been passed.

For the first time, after decades, I am not hosting Passover. One of my daughters is taking over (next year it will be my other daughter).

It feels weird, sad and thrilling all at the same time. Who knew that last year would be my last?

Everyone says “it’s good!” “it’s time!” And yet …. are we ever really quite ready? Those of us who never minded the preparation, the cooking, the utter exhaustion that leads to our remarkable celebration of Passover?

But I am not giving up completely! I am bringing food.

Of course.

My grandchildren, as grandchildren will do, have told their mother that only my matzo balls will do. And my stuffed cabbage and charoset. And that even when she uses my recipes, it is “not like grandma’s.”

Grand children are the absolute best. And I am so lucky to have my five.

Chag Pesach Sameach everyone. Shalom.

Here is the matzo ball recipe I use. The photo below shows the matzo balls I made yesterday.

MATZO BALLS

• 1 cup matzo meal

• 1 teaspoon salt

• freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley or dill, or both, optional

• 4 whole large eggs, slightly beaten

• 1/4 cup melted goose fat, chicken fat, margarine or vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup chicken soup, water or seltzer

In a bowl. combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper and parsley or dill (or both). In another bowl, beat the eggs, melted fat and soup together. Add the egg mixture to the matzo mixture and blend thoroughly. Stir in the liquid. Cover the ingredients and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With wet cold hands shape the matzo mixture into 1-inch balls (you may have to re-wet hands occasionally). Add the matzo balls one by one to the boiling water. Lower the heat so that the water is at a simmer. Cover the pan and cook for at least 50 minutes (do not lift the cover) or until they are tender. Remove the matzo balls from the water. Place into the soup to soak up more flavor.

Makes 14-16

Stewed Dried Fruit Redux

I have a gastronomic fascination with stewed, dried fruit — what my grandmother called kumput (which she made with mostly prunes and sometimes dried apricots).

I’ve written a sort of love letter to this iconic, Ashkenazi Jewish dish.

I’ve played with the recipe and made several different versions.

I like them all.

The recipe below has become my favorite. The sweet white wine makes a difference for sure, and also the larger pieces of crystallized ginger (some of my recipes include chopped crystallized ginger).

This isn’t at all like my grandma’s version and yet I think of her every time I made any version of this recipe. She was the inspiration, after all.

STEWED DRIED FRUIT with GINGER

• 1-1/2 cups water 

• 1-1/2 cups sweet white wine

• 1 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

• 1 3” vanilla bean split open

• 1 2” piece cinnamon stick

• 8 whole cloves

• 6 cardamom pods, optional

• 1/4 cup crystallized ginger pieces

• 8 whole dried figs

• 8 pitted Medjool dates

• 1 cup cut up dried apricots, peaches or nectarines

• 10-12 prunes

• 1/2 cup raisins or dried cranberries or cherries

Place the water, wine, juice, maple syrup, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves and optional cardamom pods in a saucepan large enough to hold all the dried fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the fruit and simmer another 20-25 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean. Let cool. Serve with the poaching liquid. 

Makes 8 servings

Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Coconut Meringue Cookies

I’ve been baking lots of gluten-free butter cookies lately, experimenting for Passover — using our family “fannies” or butter cookies as a base. But because the recipes use egg yolks I had a ton of whites left over. So …… I’ve also been experimenting with meringues (see how-to whip egg whites) and decided to use some for cookies. These coconut cookies are not only an easy way to use meringue but they are tender and sweet and perfect for Passover.

Here’s how: mix 2 cups of meringue (recipe below) with 1-1/2 to 2 cups shredded coconut (amount depends on the size of the shreds: you need enough to form a soft “dough”). Place blobs of the dough (about 1-1/2 inches) on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Bake for 15-22 minutes or until lightly browned. Some people prefer these very light color; we like them honey colored.

I’ve now made these cookies several times. The less coconut you use, the softer and flatter the cookies will be. But either way, the cookies are tender, sweet and oh so tasty!

Meringue:

• 4 large egg whites at room temperature

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beat the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer with whisk attachment set at medium speed until the mixture is foamy. Add the lemon juice and salt and beat, gradually increasing the speed, until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat, gradually increasing the speed to high, until the mixture stands in stiff, glossy peaks. Stir in the vanilla extract.

How to Whip Egg Whites

Have you ever realized how many eggs we use during Passover?

LOTS!

And many Passover recipes, especially desserts, use whipped egg whites. So you read things like “soft peaks” and “stiff but not dry” and such.

What does it all mean? Looks easy but ……

sometimes the food preparations that look the easiest turn out to be the most intimidating.

Egg whites are among those. But if you want to make perfectly soft soufflés, tender Baked Alaska, crispy meringues  and other wonderful treats, it’s important to get it right.

These tips will help:

• Use the freshest eggs possible; their thicker whites whip to greater volume and with more stability than the thin, runny whites of older eggs.

• Separate the yolks and whites when the eggs are cold. This helps prevent even the tiniest particle of yolk from falling into the whites. Egg yolks contain fat, and any kind of fat inhibits volume.

• For the best volume, let the egg whites come to room temperature (usually about 30 minutes) before you beat them.

• Copper bowls are the best for the job, (the acid in the metal helps stabilize the foam), but stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowls are fine too. Don’t use plastic bowls because no matter how much you wash them the surface of retains some fat particles.

• Use a balloon or large whisk or the whisk attachment of an electric mixer or hand mixer. Standard cake batter beaters don’t whip egg whites well; neither does a food processor.

• Start beating the whites on slow and gradually increase the speed as volume increases.

• Beat the whites to the foamy stage (photo #1)before you add ingredients such as cream of tartar, salt, lemon juice or vinegar.

• Add any sugar gradually (about 2 tablespoonfuls at a time), and only after the whites have been beaten to the "soft peak" stage.

• “Soft peaks” (photo #2) means beaten whites with tips that fall over when you lift the beater.

• "Stiff but not dry" (photo #3) means beaten egg whites that are thick and glossy looking and with tips that stand up firmly with only a tiny bit at the top lopping over.

• To test whether whites are stiff enough, either turn the bowl over – it’s ok! the whites won’t fall out! (photo #4) Or, spoon a small amount out of the bowl and turn the spoon over – the whites should cling, not fall out.

• Photo#5 shows the meringue with eggs whipped and sugar added

Honey Glazed Roasted Beets

I’m already planning side dishes for our Passover Seder. I like the ones that have vibrant color, that aren’t too difficult to prepare — it’s just too much work what with all the other food I am planning to cook — and also that I can make in advance.

Roasted beets meet all these requirements. I serve them in some form every year at our Seder.

This year’s version couldn’t be easier. We’ve had it several times already. We like it best when served at room temperature. I’ve made this using Balsamic vinegar instead of wine vinegar. It’s somewhat sweeter that way, but we prefer the white wine vinegar tang.

Honey Glazed Roasted Beets 

• 3 large beets

• 3 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• salt to taste

• sprinkle of Aleppo pepper (or use cayenne or some other smokey dried pepper)

• 1-2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 2 tablespoons chopped chives or green scallion tops

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Peel the beets and cut them into bite-size pieces. Place the beets in a baking dish. Heat the honey and olive oil together over medium heat for about one minute or until the liquid has thinned and easily blended. Pour the liquid over the beets and toss to coat each piece. Sprinkle with thyme, salt and Aleppo pepper. Cover the beets with foil. Bake for 25 minutes or until the beets are tender. Remove the foil and bake for another 8-10 minutes to crisp and glaze the surface. Remove the baking dish from the oven, pour the vinegar over the beets, toss and let rest for 10-15 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings

Passover Carrot Cake

One Passover, decades ago, we decided to forego Aunt Rozzie’s sponge cake, the dessert we had eaten year after year after year at our Seders for as long as I remembered.

We switched to the newer, modern, au courant flourless chocolate cake.

But after years of that we got bored again with the same old same old.

So I began to bake other stuff. Orange-Almond Cake. A Passover version of our family’s treasured recipe for butter cookies. Toasted Almond Napoleon with Balsamic-glazed Bananas. Chocolate Jelly Roll.

Then I experimented with carrot cake.

Winner!

As far as I’m concerned carrot cake is always a winner. You can add a cream-cheese frosting or top it with whipped cream, ice cream or sorbet, but it really doesn’t need any of those. It’s just wonderfully moist and delicious as is. Even this version, suitable for Passover.

Passover Carrot Cake

• 8 large eggs, separated

• 1-1/4 cups sugar

• 6 tablespoons orange juice (or use mango or apple juice)

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 cup finely chopped almonds

• 1 cup very finely chopped carrots

• 1 cup matzo cake meal

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 10-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper and lightly grease the paper. Beat the egg yolks and 3/4 cup of sugar together in the bowl of an electric mixer set on medium-high, for 3-4 minutes, or until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Stir in the juice, vanilla, almonds, carrots, cake meal, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt and blend ingredients thoroughly. In a second mixer bowl, beat the egg whites on medium speed until they are frothy. Continue beating, gradually adding the remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Beat until the whites are glossy and stand in peaks. Stir about 1/4 of the beaten whites into the yolk mixture. Fold the remaining whites into the yolk mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 45 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the cake on a rack.

Makes 10 servings

Quarantine Charoset or Pantry Charoset or Completely Made-up Charoset

When I was growing up the Seder charoset was used symbolically only. My grandmother, and in later years my mother, would grate an apple or two, mix it with some walnuts and Manischewitz concord grape wine and that was that. It always turned brown and didn’t look very appetizing and we ate it only as commanded during the reading of the Haggadah.

Then, several years ago, charoset became a big deal. It was now expected to taste good, look good and be eaten like a side dish, the way we eat cranberry sauce or apple sauce.

And so, I stopped making the apple mush. Instead, over the years, I’ve made Persian versions, nut-free versions, coconut charosets and all sorts of others, based on different ethnicities.

This year I am making my special COVID19 jumble, made with what I have on hand in the way of dried fruit (plus an orange, which I always have in the fridge.

Should I call it Quarantine Charoset, Pantry Charoset or simply Completely Made Up Charoset?

I don’t use any nuts because of allergies, but you can add 1/3-1/2 cup of chopped nuts (any kind) to this recipe if you have some in your pantry.

Quarantine Charoset or Pantry Charoset or Completely Made-up Charoset

• 1-1/2 cups chopped dates

• 1 cup chop dried figs

• 1 cup chopped dried apricots

• 1/2 cup raisins

• 1 fresh apple, peeled and chopped

• 1/2 cup pomegranate jam (or any jam you have)

• 1/3 cup Passover wine (preferably Concord grape)

• 1/4 cup orange juice

• 1 teaspoon grated fresh orange peel

Place the dates, figs, apricots, raisins and apple in a bowl and toss the fruit to distribute the pieces evenly. Add the pomegranate jam and stir to coat the fruit. Pour in the wine and orange juice; add the orange peel. Toss the ingredients. Let rest for at least one hour before serving.

Makes about 5 cups

Dried Fig and Coconut Charoset

Every year I make two charosets for our Seders: the family favorite (a Persian style with pistachios, dried fruit and a hint of cayenne), and also a new one.

Last year the newbie was this Dried Fig and Coconut charoset. It was a BIG HIT!

It’s easy to make, you can make it ahead and it is NUT FREE.

Dried Fig and Coconut Charoset

• 1 cup chopped dried figs

• 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

• 1/2 cup dried cherries or cranberries

• 1 navel orange

• 1 cup flaked coconut

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/2 cup apricot jam

• 1/4 cup sweet white or red Passover wine

Combine the figs, apricots and cherries in a bowl. Peel the orange and remove the outer white pith (leaving only the orange flesh). Cut the flesh into small pieces and add to the bowl. Add the coconut, ginger, cinnamon apricot jam and wine and mix ingredients. Let rest for at least one hour (preferably several hours) before serving. May be made a day ahead.

Makes about 3 cups

Stuff It: Matzo Stuffing

Matzo Stuffing with Apples and Portobello Mushrooms

Almost everyone I know makes brisket for the first Seder.

But my grandma, and then my mother — for all the years that I remember — served turkey. So, so do I.

I may also make a brisket, depending on how many people are coming to celebrate with us. Or, I may make brisket for the second night. Depends.

But there’s always a turkey. And that means stuffing.

And so, the chosen stuffing for this year: crushed matzo with apples and portobello mushrooms. It’s easy and can be prepared in advance; just pop it in the oven to cook about 40 minutes before serving time. Sometimes I add thyme to this dish, sometimes I don’t, depending on the crowd. It’s delicious either way, although of course, the fresh herb gives it a bit more flavor.

Matzo Stuffing with Apples and Portobello Mushrooms

• 6 pieces of matzo, broken up into little pieces

• 1-1/2 cups chicken or turkey stock (or vegetable stock)

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 1 large stalk celery, chopped

• 2 large Portobello mushroom caps, chopped

• 2 tart apples, peeled and chopped

• 1/2 cup golden raisins

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, optional

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 large eggs, beaten

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the matzot in a bowl and pour the stock over them. Let soak for 5-6 minutes or until liquid has been absorbed. Set aside. While the matzot are soaking, heat the vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the apples, raisins, parsley and thyme, if used, and cook for another minute. Spoon the contents of the pan into the bowl with the matzot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss ingredients to distribute them evenly. Add the eggs, mix the ingredients thoroughly. Spoon the ingredients into a baking dish. Bake for about 40 minutes or until the top is crispy.

Makes 6-8 servings