My Grandma's Chremslach

Chremslach

Over the years our Seder dinner has changed from time to time, mindful of newcomers to the family or accommodating the people who are vegetarian or who have allergies and so on.

But one dish has been a constant, from the time the Seders were at my grandma’s house, through the years when my mother hosted, continuing through when it was my turn: Chremslach. My grandma’s recipe for honey drenched matzo fritters.

This year, for the first time, one of my daughters is taking over. I’m thrilled for us and for her, to pass the torch, though, truth be told, a little sad too.

I will bring the Chremslach.

L’dor v’dor.

CHREMSLACH

• 3 large eggs, separated

• pinch of salt

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup sugar

• 3/4 cup matzo meal

• vegetable oil for frying

• 1 pound honey, approximately

In a bowl, beat the egg yolks, salt and one tablespoon vegetable oil together until well blended. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Gradually add the 1/4 cup sugar and continue to beat until the whites stand up in peaks. Fold the beaten whites into the egg yolk mixture. Fold in the matzo meal. Let the mixture rest for about 30 minutes (I refrigerate). With cool, wet hands, shape portions of the mixture into disks about 1-1/2-inches in diameter and 1/2-inch thick. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Fry the disks for 1-2 minutes per side or until golden brown on both sides (you may have to flatten them slightly with a rigid spatula). Drain on paper towels and place the fried disks in a large saucepan. Pour the honey over the disks. Cook over low-medium heat for about 10 minutes or until heated through and all the disks are coated with honey. Serve immediately or make ahead and reheat. Add more honey as tastes dictate.

*You can make these 3-4 days in advance and keep them in the honey — may need more honey as the fritters become soaked. Or you can keep the fritters and honey separate and cook them together just before you serve them. My grandma added 1/2 cup chopped walnuts (I don’t because of nut allergies and actually like them better without).

Makes 10-12 servings

Roasted Fruit Cocktail

Roasted Fruit Cocktail

After a huge Passover Seder meal (or any big dinner), Roasted Fruit Cocktail is an excellent choice for dessert. Roasting brings out the fruit sugars in a tantalizing way with hints of rum and molasses. The chopped mint adds color and a really fresh, perky finish.

ROASTED FRUIT COCKTAIL

• 1 ripe fresh pineapple

• 2 fresh mangos

• 3/4 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup honey

• cinnamon

• 18-20 strawberries, hulls removed

• 1 cup seedless red grapes

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

• sorbet or ice cream, optional

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a jelly roll sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.Remove the leaves and hard outer shell of the pineapple. Cut the pineapple lengthwise into 1-inch thick strips. Discard the fibrous core. Place the remaining strips on the parchment-lined jelly roll pan. Peel the mango and cut the flesh into strips. Set aside. Place the orange juice and honey in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat slightly and cook for 5-6 minutes or until the liquid is slightly thickened. Generously brush all surfaces of the pineapple strips with the orange juice mixture. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Roast for 4-5 minutes. Turn the strips over. Add the mango strips, strawberries and grapes to the pan. Brush with the remaining orange juice mixture. Roast for another 6-7 minutes or until fruit is soft and lightly caramelized. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool. Cut the pineapple and mango strips into bite size pieces. Place all the fruit and accumulated pan juices in a bowl, sprinkle with the mint and toss. Place into serving dishes. Serve plain or with sorbet or ice cream.

Makes 8 servings

Golden Beet Salad with Horseradish Vinaigrette

Golden Beet Salad

I usually make beet salad with red beets but the golden beets at the market looked so good I used them instead.

Same thing, different color. It’s all good.

Keep this in mind for Passover. You’re probably going to have some horseradish in the fridge.

Golden Beet Salad with Horseradish Vinaigrette

• 3 medium golden beets

• 3 cups packed baby arugula

• 1/2 cup chopped red onion

• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1 tablespoon freshly grated white horseradish

• 3 tablespoons avocado oil or olive oil

• 2-3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Scrub and trim the beets, cutting away the greens, if any. Wrap the beets tightly in aluminum foil and roast for about one hour or until the beets are tender. Remove the packet from the oven, open the foil and let the beets cool. Peel the beets, cut them into bite-size pieces and place in a bowl. Add the arugula, red onion, dill and horseradish and toss the ingredients. Pour in the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the cider vinegar and toss the ingredients. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Let rest for 10-15 minutes before serving. Taste and add more vinegar if needed.

Makes 4-6 servings

Matzo Fattoush

It’s just a plain old salad. Refreshing and all. But add a few pieces of toasted matzo farfel and it transforms into a holiday treat. Fattoush. The word means “crumbled bread” in Arabic and of course, during the year you can use croutons and such. This is a special version, especially good for Passover.

MATZO FARFEL FATTOUSH

• 2 cups matzo farfel

• 6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 cups shredded Romaine lettuce (6-8 large leaves)

• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped

• 1 medium cucumber, chopped

• 1 ripe avocado, peeled and chopped

• 1/2 medium red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped parsley

• 1/4 cup chopped mint

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the farfel on a baking sheet. Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil over the farfel and toss, coating all the pieces. Bake for about 15 minutes, tossing the farfel occasionally, or until it is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool. Place the lettuce shreds, tomatoes, cucumber, avocado, bell pepper, scallions, parsley and mint in a bowl. Mix the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil and the lemon juice together. Pour the dressing over the salad, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and toss the ingredients. Add the toasted farfel, toss again and let rest for a few minutes before serving. Makes 8 servings

Matzo Balls for Passover

The torch has been passed.

For the first time, after decades, I am not hosting Passover. One of my daughters is taking over (next year it will be my other daughter).

It feels weird, sad and thrilling all at the same time. Who knew that last year would be my last?

Everyone says “it’s good!” “it’s time!” And yet …. are we ever really quite ready? Those of us who never minded the preparation, the cooking, the utter exhaustion that leads to our remarkable celebration of Passover?

But I am not giving up completely! I am bringing food.

Of course.

My grandchildren, as grandchildren will do, have told their mother that only my matzo balls will do. And my stuffed cabbage and charoset. And that even when she uses my recipes, it is “not like grandma’s.”

Grand children are the absolute best. And I am so lucky to have my five.

Chag Pesach Sameach everyone. Shalom.

Here is the matzo ball recipe I use. The photo below shows the matzo balls I made yesterday.

MATZO BALLS

• 1 cup matzo meal

• 1 teaspoon salt

• freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley or dill, or both, optional

• 4 whole large eggs, slightly beaten

• 1/4 cup melted goose fat, chicken fat, margarine or vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup chicken soup, water or seltzer

In a bowl. combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper and parsley or dill (or both). In another bowl, beat the eggs, melted fat and soup together. Add the egg mixture to the matzo mixture and blend thoroughly. Stir in the liquid. Cover the ingredients and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With wet cold hands shape the matzo mixture into 1-inch balls (you may have to re-wet hands occasionally). Add the matzo balls one by one to the boiling water. Lower the heat so that the water is at a simmer. Cover the pan and cook for at least 50 minutes (do not lift the cover) or until they are tender. Remove the matzo balls from the water. Place into the soup to soak up more flavor.

Makes 14-16

Stewed Dried Fruit Redux

I have a gastronomic fascination with stewed, dried fruit — what my grandmother called kumput (which she made with mostly prunes and sometimes dried apricots).

I’ve written a sort of love letter to this iconic, Ashkenazi Jewish dish.

I’ve played with the recipe and made several different versions.

I like them all.

The recipe below has become my favorite. The sweet white wine makes a difference for sure, and also the larger pieces of crystallized ginger (some of my recipes include chopped crystallized ginger).

This isn’t at all like my grandma’s version and yet I think of her every time I made any version of this recipe. She was the inspiration, after all.

STEWED DRIED FRUIT with GINGER

• 1-1/2 cups water 

• 1-1/2 cups sweet white wine

• 1 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

• 1 3” vanilla bean split open

• 1 2” piece cinnamon stick

• 8 whole cloves

• 6 cardamom pods, optional

• 1/4 cup crystallized ginger pieces

• 8 whole dried figs

• 8 pitted Medjool dates

• 1 cup cut up dried apricots, peaches or nectarines

• 10-12 prunes

• 1/2 cup raisins or dried cranberries or cherries

Place the water, wine, juice, maple syrup, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves and optional cardamom pods in a saucepan large enough to hold all the dried fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the fruit and simmer another 20-25 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean. Let cool. Serve with the poaching liquid. 

Makes 8 servings

Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Coconut Meringue Cookies

I’ve been baking lots of gluten-free butter cookies lately, experimenting for Passover — using our family “fannies” or butter cookies as a base. But because the recipes use egg yolks I had a ton of whites left over. So …… I’ve also been experimenting with meringues (see how-to whip egg whites) and decided to use some for cookies. These coconut cookies are not only an easy way to use meringue but they are tender and sweet and perfect for Passover.

Here’s how: mix 2 cups of meringue (recipe below) with 1-1/2 to 2 cups shredded coconut (amount depends on the size of the shreds: you need enough to form a soft “dough”). Place blobs of the dough (about 1-1/2 inches) on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Bake for 15-22 minutes or until lightly browned. Some people prefer these very light color; we like them honey colored.

I’ve now made these cookies several times. The less coconut you use, the softer and flatter the cookies will be. But either way, the cookies are tender, sweet and oh so tasty!

Meringue:

• 4 large egg whites at room temperature

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beat the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer with whisk attachment set at medium speed until the mixture is foamy. Add the lemon juice and salt and beat, gradually increasing the speed, until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat, gradually increasing the speed to high, until the mixture stands in stiff, glossy peaks. Stir in the vanilla extract.

How to Whip Egg Whites

Have you ever realized how many eggs we use during Passover?

LOTS!

And many Passover recipes, especially desserts, use whipped egg whites. So you read things like “soft peaks” and “stiff but not dry” and such.

What does it all mean? Looks easy but ……

sometimes the food preparations that look the easiest turn out to be the most intimidating.

Egg whites are among those. But if you want to make perfectly soft soufflés, tender Baked Alaska, crispy meringues  and other wonderful treats, it’s important to get it right.

These tips will help:

• Use the freshest eggs possible; their thicker whites whip to greater volume and with more stability than the thin, runny whites of older eggs.

• Separate the yolks and whites when the eggs are cold. This helps prevent even the tiniest particle of yolk from falling into the whites. Egg yolks contain fat, and any kind of fat inhibits volume.

• For the best volume, let the egg whites come to room temperature (usually about 30 minutes) before you beat them.

• Copper bowls are the best for the job, (the acid in the metal helps stabilize the foam), but stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowls are fine too. Don’t use plastic bowls because no matter how much you wash them the surface of retains some fat particles.

• Use a balloon or large whisk or the whisk attachment of an electric mixer or hand mixer. Standard cake batter beaters don’t whip egg whites well; neither does a food processor.

• Start beating the whites on slow and gradually increase the speed as volume increases.

• Beat the whites to the foamy stage (photo #1)before you add ingredients such as cream of tartar, salt, lemon juice or vinegar.

• Add any sugar gradually (about 2 tablespoonfuls at a time), and only after the whites have been beaten to the "soft peak" stage.

• “Soft peaks” (photo #2) means beaten whites with tips that fall over when you lift the beater.

• "Stiff but not dry" (photo #3) means beaten egg whites that are thick and glossy looking and with tips that stand up firmly with only a tiny bit at the top lopping over.

• To test whether whites are stiff enough, either turn the bowl over – it’s ok! the whites won’t fall out! (photo #4) Or, spoon a small amount out of the bowl and turn the spoon over – the whites should cling, not fall out.

• Photo#5 shows the meringue with eggs whipped and sugar added

Honey Glazed Roasted Beets

I’m already planning side dishes for our Passover Seder. I like the ones that have vibrant color, that aren’t too difficult to prepare — it’s just too much work what with all the other food I am planning to cook — and also that I can make in advance.

Roasted beets meet all these requirements. I serve them in some form every year at our Seder.

This year’s version couldn’t be easier. We’ve had it several times already. We like it best when served at room temperature. I’ve made this using Balsamic vinegar instead of wine vinegar. It’s somewhat sweeter that way, but we prefer the white wine vinegar tang.

Honey Glazed Roasted Beets 

• 3 large beets

• 3 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• salt to taste

• sprinkle of Aleppo pepper (or use cayenne or some other smokey dried pepper)

• 1-2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 2 tablespoons chopped chives or green scallion tops

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Peel the beets and cut them into bite-size pieces. Place the beets in a baking dish. Heat the honey and olive oil together over medium heat for about one minute or until the liquid has thinned and easily blended. Pour the liquid over the beets and toss to coat each piece. Sprinkle with thyme, salt and Aleppo pepper. Cover the beets with foil. Bake for 25 minutes or until the beets are tender. Remove the foil and bake for another 8-10 minutes to crisp and glaze the surface. Remove the baking dish from the oven, pour the vinegar over the beets, toss and let rest for 10-15 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings