Apple Pie is Therapy

Peel, core and slice the apples for pie

Roll the pie dough

Fill bottom crust with fruit

Place second crust on top of fruit

Add a dab of milk here and there to the top crust

For me, my October pie baking fest is like therapy. It’s always a good way to spend the day and work out frustrations, anger and sadness. The kind I am feeling these days because of the war and devastation in Israel.

It was difficult to find the kind of apples I like this year. Because there was an early frost, none of the orchards I usually go to had Rhode Island Greening apples, the best pie apples on earth. After some delays and some connections from someone who knew someone who knew someone else who knew someone who had an orchard in Rhode Island, I got a bushel of them!

I’m grateful and happy for that at least.

Here are some photos showing the steps to my pie baking: peel-core-slice; roll the dough; place the filling inside the bottom crust; cover the pies (one of mine had a streusel top); place second piece of rolled dough on top of fruit; add a dab or two of milk (makes the crust brown in spots) and bake.

Voila! PIE!

If you prefer a streusel top, look here.

Lily Vail’s (My Mom’s) Apple Pie

crust:

• 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon grated fresh lemon peel, optional

• 1/2 cup cold butter

• 1/3 cup cold vegetable shortening

• 1/4 cup cold milk, juice, water or melted ice cream, approximately (add more as needed)

• apple filling

To make the crust: Combine the flour, sugar, salt and lemon peel, if used, in a large bowl. Cut the butter and shortening into chunks and add the chunks to the flour mixture. Work the fat into the flour mixture until the ingredients resemble crumbs (use your hands, a pastry blender or the pulse feature of a food processor). Add the liquid, using only enough to gather pastry into a soft ball of dough (start with 1/4 cup). Cut the dough in half and flatten each half to make a disk shape. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it stand at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Lightly flour a pastry board or clean work surface. With a rolling pin, roll one half of the dough on the floured surface into a circle about 1/8-inch thick, making sure the circle is larger than the pie pan by about 1 inch. Place the dough in a 9” or 10” pie pan. Pour the apple filling into the pastry-lined pan. Cut the butter into small pieces and place on top of the filling. Roll out the remaining dough and place it over the filling. Gently press the bottom and top crusts together along the flared edge of the pie pan. For a fluted rim, press your thumb and index finger against the outside of the rim, or crimp it with the tines of a fork or the blunt side of a knife. Cut steam vents in the top crust with the tip of a sharp knife or the tines of a fork. Bake the pie for about an hour or until golden brown.

Apple Filling:

3 pounds pie apples (Rhode Island Greenings, Granny Smith, Gravenstein, Northern Spy, Golden Delicious, Idared, Stayman, Winesap, Baldwin, Jonagold)

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 1 tablespoon butter

Peel and core the apples then cut them into slices. Place the slices in a bowl. Add the 1/2 cup sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon and flour and toss the ingredients to coat the apple slices evenly.

Nectarine and Blueberry Crisp

It’s getting to be that time of year in Connecticut — when the produce is at its summer peak and you know there’s only about a month to eat it up and use it up before the Jewish holidays come and we focus more on festive dinners and heartier food.

The nectarines couldn’t be better than they are right now — so here’s a treat that’s perfect for now. But here’s the thing — you can freeze this and reheat for a holiday dinner. The recipe can be either dairy or dairy-free.

Nectarine and Blueberry Crisp

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 3/4 cup old fashioned oats

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon cinnamon

• pinch of salt

• 1/2 cup butter (or use margarine, solid coconut oil, vegetable shortening or a combination of these)

• 3 large ripe nectarines or peaches

• 4 cups fresh blueberries

• 1/3 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine the 1 cup flour, oats, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt in a bowl. Cut the butter into chunks and work into the dry ingredients until the mixture is crumbly. Set aside. Cut the nectarines into chunks and place them in a bowl. Add the blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and flour and toss ingredients. Spoon into a baking dish. Top with the crumb mixture. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the top is golden brown.

Makes 8 servings

Fruit Streusel Mini-cakes

Fruit Streusel Mini-cakes

As anyone who knows me or reads my posts knows, I do not like to waste food. So recently, when I overcooked some rhubarb, I wasn’t about to trash it. Because —anyone who bakes knows — fruit sauce (applesauce, peach sauce, even mashed avocado, etc.) is very useful for making muffins, quickbreads and cake.

I decided to make muffins, but rather than use a basic muffin recipe, I tinkered with an old recipe for applesauce cake and decided to go with that. Even though they look like muffins and they’re baked in muffin tins, I call them mini-cakes because the texture is more cake-like than muffiny.

I guess that means you can eat them for breakfast but also serve them for dessert (an ice cream accompaniment would be good).

If you prefer cake, use a 9” cake tin.

Fruit Streusel Mini-cakes

Streusel:

• 1/3 cup quick cooking oats

• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 3 tablespoons butter cut into chunks

Mini-cakes:

• 1/3 cup sugar

• 1/4 cup butter

• 1/2 cup stewed fruit puree

• 1/3 cup plain Greek style yogurt (or use sour cream)

• 1 large egg, beaten

• 1-1/2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 tablespoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 6 tablespoons orange juice

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Make the streusel: Combine the oats, flour and sugar in a bowl and mix the ingredients together. Add the butter. Using fingers or a pastry blender (or a food processor on pulse), work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture is crumbly. Set it aside.

The mini-cakes: Lightly grease 9 muffin tin cups. Beat the sugar and butter together with a hand mixer or electric mixer set at medium speed for 2-3 minutes or until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Add the stewed fruit puree, yogurt, egg and orange zest and beat the ingredients for 2-3 minutes or until smooth. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl. Add half the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and beat until well blended. Add half the juice and beat until well blended. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Pour equal amounts of the batter into the muffin tins. Sprinkle equal amounts of the streusel on top of the muffins. Bake for 22-25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the middle comes out clean.

Makes 9

Roasted Strawberry Ice Cream

Roasted Strawberry Ice Cream

Many years ago Ed and I were on a cruise with our cousins and there we were, lounging on a public deck, when we overheard a woman consoling another woman whose husband had died on board the night before.

It was so shocking that we still talk about it. I felt sorry for the widow of course and something she told the other woman has haunted me ever since.

She said “I told him not to eat the ice cream!” — as if that one dessert was responsible for the heart attack that killed him.

My first thought was “at least he had the ice cream.”

Next week I celebrate a big birthday. I mean big as in round numbers. I mean I have passed my grandparents round numbers. I’m about the age of that widow and her poor husband. And I now say:

“Eat the ice cream!”

Because you never know.

For most of my married life, the food we usually eat at home — with indulgences here and there — is healthy. I make fresh food, have cut down on meat, fat and salt over the years, don’t serve processed foods or junk.

We’ve reached the age that an occasional ice cream — especially on vacation — won’t be the thing that kills us. And if it is, well, at least we had the ice cream.

So, for my big round birthday I am going to eat some ice cream.

I love strawberry ice cream so I already made some for the occasion. I would normally have preferred fresh strawberries but I haven’t found a good source yet for real strawberries, the kind I remember from the old days that were small, sweet and smelled like caramelizing sugar. So I roasted the best looking ones I could find with a bit of orange zest and brown sugar and this combo turned out to be absolutely scrumptious for ice cream.

Roasted Strawberry birthday Ice Cream

• 1 pint strawberries

• 1/4 cup orange juice

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar

• 2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

• 3 cups half and half, light cream or whipping cream

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 3 large egg yolks

• 1/8 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line a baking pan with parchment paper. Rinse the berries, remove the hulls and chop the berries into smaller pieces. Place the berries on the parchment. In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice, brown sugar and orange zest. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the liquid has thickened slightly. Pour the liquid over the berries and toss the fruit to coat all sides. Roast the berries for about 10 minutes or until softened and glazed. Remove from the heat and let cool. Heat 2 cups of the cream over medium heat until bubbles appear around the edges of the pan. Set aside. While the cream is heating, beat the sugar, egg yolks and salt at medium speed in an electric mixer (or with a hand mixer) for 3-5 minutes or until light and thick. Gradually add the heated cream and mix the ingredients until the mixture is uniform. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5-6 minutes or until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Pour in the remaining cream and blend it in thoroughly. Pour into a container and refrigerate until cold. Stir in the vanilla extract. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s directions, until almost firm. Add the strawberries plus any juices that have accumulated. Continue to freeze until firm.

Makes about 6 cups

Derby Pie

When Ed was growing up, it was a tradition in his family to watch the Kentucky Derby. One year he told his grandpa that a particular horse was a “sure thing.”

It wasn’t.

Lessons learned.

We watched the Derby as a family when our kids were young and then, one year, miracle of miracles! We went to the Kentucky Derby for real!

I placed a small bet on what I thought was a “sure thing.”

It was! I won!

I was elated and bought mint juleps for the people we were with.

Never again! Don’t waste my time adding sugar and mint to Bourbon.

And we had Derby Pie, which is a sweet confection with loads of sugar and chocolate and pecans too.

I’ve made my own versions over the years — I can’t have pecans in the house because of allergies so I use almonds or cashews. But pecans taste better and have the best texture for the pie.

So here, for all of you who will watch on Saturday (and even if you don’t) is my latest recipe for Derby Pie (which apparently is a trademarked title so I changed the name a bit to Derby Pie (Sort-of).

Derby Pie (Sort-of)

• 1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust

• 6 tablespoons butter

• 6 ounces chopped semisweet chocolate

• 3 large eggs

• 1 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons Bourbon

• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 3/4 cups chopped pecans

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prick the bottom of the crust with the tines of a fork, cover with aluminum foil, including the edges, and weight the foil with baking pellets or dried beans. Bake the crust for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and weights, return the crust to the oven and bake for another 5 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven and set it aside. Lower the heat to 350 degrees. Melt the butter with the chocolate over low heat, stir to blend them thoroughly and set aside to cool. Using a mixer or hand mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, flour, Bourbon, vanilla extract and salt together at medium speed for about 2-3 minutes until thoroughly blended. Add the melted butter-chocolate mixture and beat for another minute or so to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Fold in the nuts. Spoon the mixture into the partially baked crust. Bake for about 30 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool on a cake rack.

Makes 8 servings

Blueberry-Orange Crumb Cake

Post Passover — what could be better than a slice of crumb cake chock full of fresh blueberries?

Blueberry-Orange Crumb Cake

Crumb Layer:

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup quick oats

• 1/2 cup shredded coconut

• 1/4 cup brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon grated orange zest

• 6 tablespoons melted coconut oil (or use butter)

Place the flour, oats, coconut, brown sugar and orange zest in a bowl and mix until well blended. Pour in the coconut oil and blend it in. Crumble the mixture with your fingers or a fork and set it aside.

Cake:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 tablespoon grated orange zest

• 2 large eggs

• 1 cup orange juice

• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 1/2 cup melted coconut oil (or butter)

• 2 cups blueberries

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease a 9-1/2-inch springform pan. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and orange zest in the bowl of an electric mixer. In another bowl, combine the eggs, orange juice, vanilla extract and melted coconut oil. Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ones and stir only to combine: do not overbeat. Turn the batter into the prepared pan. Top with the berries. Cover with the crumb layer. Bake for about 50 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean.

Makes one cake serving 8

Classic, Dairy-free Hamantashen

Every year in the few weeks before Purim I look with great anticipation for new variations on hamantashen. I can’t get over the creativity, not to mention how delicious so many of them sound! Halvah hamantashen (Amy Kritzer). Savory gochujang caramel hamantashen (Sharon Matten). A large, all-in-one, easy-to-bake pear-filled puff pastry hamantashen galette (Leah Koenig). Mazal tov to these fabulous women and the culinary magic they spin.

I also love tinkering and experimenting with recipes, creating new riffs on classics and making up recipes out of whole cloth. I’ve been doing this throughout my food-writing career. In fact, speaking of Purim and hamantashen, one year I won a contest run by Soom foods for my Spiced Lamb Phyllo Hamantashen with Lemon-Tahini Sauce.

OTOH sometimes I just want the old thing.

Like this past week, when I decided to bake some hamantashen for Purim and just wanted plain old apricot.

How about both? Why not!

Have fun baking hamantashen for the holiday — whether you decide to go with something new or the old classic. Or both.

Btw, if you need a good, classic dairy/shortbread version, here it is.

Here’s one for frozen dough hamantashen.

And in case you like prune-filled hamantashen, here’s my recipe for prune lekvar.

Classic, Dairy-free Hamantashen

• 1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar

• 1-1/2 teaspoons grated orange peel

• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into chunks

• 3 tablespoons solid coconut oil

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1/3 cup orange juice

  Combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, orange peel, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Add the shortening and coconut oil and work into the dry ingredients until the mixture is crumbly. Combine the vegetable oil and orange juice and pour into the flour mixture. Mix until a soft dough has formed. Cover and chill for at least one hour. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Roll the dough thin (about 1/8” inch thick). Cut out circles with a 3-inch cookie cutter. Place about 2 teaspoons of filling in the center of each circle. Fold the dough around the filling to form a triangle. Seal them edges tightly. Place the triangles on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 20-22 minutes or lightly tanned.

   Makes 16-18

Stewed Dried Fruit

I know some people think it’s too old fashioned, but I have always loved — still love — dried fruit compote.

Last year I wrote about it for The Nosher (My Jewish Learning) and got lots of responses! It’s the kind of dish that some people absolutely hate (until they try some updated version) but people like me love not just for the flavor but also the memories this dish conjures up.

I grew up in an Ashkenazi Jewish family so dried fruit compote was a given! My grandmother, who made it basically with prunes and the occasional dried apricot, called it kumput. The young kids, me included, hated it.

Years later I rediscovered the dish after trying something similar (Khoshaf) in Egypt and I’ve been tinkering with the recipe ever since. This is my latest version; a tasty and fitting dish anytime, but especially for the lovely holiday of Tu B’shevat (New Year of the Trees), which comes at the beginning of a new season in Israel when trees bring forth their first fruits of the year (this year the holiday starts at sundown on February 5th).

We eat compote with yogurt for breakfast but I’ve also served it with mascarpone cheese for dessert. It’s really good anytime.

Dried Fruit Compote

• 2 cups orange juice

• 1-1/2 cups water

• 1/4 cup honey

• 1 3” cinnamon stick

• 12 whole cloves

• 2 pieces of orange peel, each about 2-inches long

• 12 prunes

• 8-10 whole dried figs, cut in half

• 1 cup dried cherries, blueberries or cranberries

• 1 cup dried apricot halves

Place the juice, water, honey, cinnamon stick, cloves and orange peel in a saucepan large enough to hold all the dried fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the fruit and simmer another 18-20 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. The sauce will thicken as the fruit absorbs some of it. Discard the cinnamon stick (you won’t find the cloves). Serve with the poaching liquid.

Makes 8 servings

Cranberry-Orange Baked Apples

I realize that Hallowe’en is big business. I’ve said it before — I don’t mind the business of costumes and fun but I don’t like the tons of candy that come with it.

I’ve also written about how it was back in the day — when I was a kid, when we did some minimal trick or treating and spent most of the evening playing games and bobbing for apples.

Before the fun and games my mother would give us dinner (typically macaroni and cheese with a buttered rice krispies crust) followed by either apple pie or baked apples.

My Dad always ended the festivities with a feast of hot chocolate.

To me, macaroni and cheese, baked apples and hot chocolate bring back happy memories and, to this day, I would prefer to enjoy the day the way it used to be for me.

Cranberry-Orange Baked Apples

• 4 large baking apples

• half a lemon

• 1/2 cup dried cranberries

• 2 teaspoons grated orange peel

• 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar (or plain sugar)

• 1 tablespoon butter or solid coconut oil, cut into 4 pieces

• 1 cup orange juice, apple juice or cider

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Wash the apples, then remove the core and seeds, leaving about 1/2-inch on the bottom. Peel the apples 1/2 of the way down from the stem end on top, then rub the cut surfaces with the cut side of the lemon. Put the apples in a baking dish. In a small bowl, mix the cranberries and orange peel and stuff this mixture into the apple hollows. Sprinkle the apples with the cinnamon sugar. Dot the tops with the butter or solid coconut oil. Bake the apples for 10 minutes then pour the juice over the apples. Continue to bake, basting occasionally with the pan juices, for about 35-40 minutes or until the apples are tender. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 

Crusted Coffee Cake

We used to have a big gathering for break-the-fast. But this year there’s only about dozen us. Still, we’ll still feast on Mujadarah and Spinach Pie, egg salad, arugula salad, kugel and cheese. Hummus and marinated avocado. Zimsterne cookies.

Tradition.

This year I’m adding a simple dessert: coffee cake with a crusty-streusel top that reminds me of the Drakes cake I used to love when I was a kid.

Crusted Coffee Cake

Crust:

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

• 3 tablespoons butter, cut into chunks

• 1 cup chopped almonds or hazelnuts

If using a food processor, place the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and butter into the workbowl and process until crumbly. Add the nuts and process on pulse a few times until the nuts are smaller and well combined with the dry ingredients. If using a bowl, combine all the dry ingredients, mix, add the butter and work the butter into the dry ingredients with your fingers until the mixture looks crumbly. Set aside.

cake:

• crust

• 2/3 cup butter

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 3/4 cup brown sugar

• 2 large eggs

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 cup sour cream (or plain, Greek style yogurt)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 9” springform pan. Make the crust. Melt the butter and set it aside to cool. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cooled butter and brown sugar for 1-2 minutes or until smooth and well combined. Add the eggs and vanilla extract and beat for 1-2 minutes. Add the sour cream and beat for 2-3 minutes or until well blended and and light in color. Add the dry ingredients and beat for 1-2 minutes or until well blended. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Cover the top with the crust mixture. Bake for 60-70 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Remove the side of the springform pan.

Makes 8-12 servings