Matzo Balls for Passover

The torch has been passed.

For the first time, after decades, I am not hosting Passover. One of my daughters is taking over (next year it will be my other daughter).

It feels weird, sad and thrilling all at the same time. Who knew that last year would be my last?

Everyone says “it’s good!” “it’s time!” And yet …. are we ever really quite ready? Those of us who never minded the preparation, the cooking, the utter exhaustion that leads to our remarkable celebration of Passover?

But I am not giving up completely! I am bringing food.

Of course.

My grandchildren, as grandchildren will do, have told their mother that only my matzo balls will do. And my stuffed cabbage and charoset. And that even when she uses my recipes, it is “not like grandma’s.”

Grand children are the absolute best. And I am so lucky to have my five.

Chag Pesach Sameach everyone. Shalom.

Here is the matzo ball recipe I use. The photo below shows the matzo balls I made yesterday.

MATZO BALLS

• 1 cup matzo meal

• 1 teaspoon salt

• freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley or dill, or both, optional

• 4 whole large eggs, slightly beaten

• 1/4 cup melted goose fat, chicken fat, margarine or vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup chicken soup, water or seltzer

In a bowl. combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper and parsley or dill (or both). In another bowl, beat the eggs, melted fat and soup together. Add the egg mixture to the matzo mixture and blend thoroughly. Stir in the liquid. Cover the ingredients and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With wet cold hands shape the matzo mixture into 1-inch balls (you may have to re-wet hands occasionally). Add the matzo balls one by one to the boiling water. Lower the heat so that the water is at a simmer. Cover the pan and cook for at least 50 minutes (do not lift the cover) or until they are tender. Remove the matzo balls from the water. Place into the soup to soak up more flavor.

Makes 14-16

Charoset Ice Cream

Several years ago I created this recipe for charoset ice cream for an article in the Jewish Week Food & Wine (which, I am sad to say, no longer has a regular food/recipe column).

Back then (2015), Ben & Jerry’s had created a charoset flavored ice cream that was all the rage — but it was only available in Israel.

The mere mention of charoset ice cream piqued my interest. So I got to work and created my own version.

I have never tasted theirs. Don’t need to. This version is quite wonderfully delicious.

Charoset Ice Cream 

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 3 tablespoons brown sugar

• 6 dates, preferably medjool, pitted and chopped

• 2 small Golden Delicious or other sweet apples, peeled and chopped

• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

• 1/4 cup sweet Passover wine

• 3 cups half and half, light cream or whipping cream

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 3 large egg yolks

• 1/8 teaspoon salt

• 1/3 cup chopped nuts, optional

Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the brown sugar and mix it in. Add the dates and apples and stir the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Sprinkle in the cinnamon. Pour in the wine. Bring the liquid to a boil. Cover the pan, lower the heat and cook for 25-30 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Mash the fruit to make the mixture pasty and set it aside.  

While the fruit is cooking, heat 2 cups of the cream over medium heat until bubbles appear around the edges of the pan. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the sugar, the egg yolks and salt at medium speed for 3-5 minutes or until light and thick. Gradually add the heated cream and mix the ingredients completely. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5-6 minutes or until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Pour in the remaining cream and blend it in thoroughly. Stir in the fruit mixture. Refrigerate until cold (at least 45 minutes). Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’

Makes about 6 cups

Stuffed Peppers

Stuffed Peppers

Historians tell us that Queen Esther, hero of Purim, was a vegetarian. Rice-and-veggie stuffed peppers is a delicious way to honor that remarkable woman, who was successful in preventing the annihilation of the Jews in ancient Persia.

My grandmother made a similar dish. I don’t have her recipe but have been experimenting with the ingredients for years and this is the closest I’ve come to the dish I remember her serving when I was a child.

Stuffed Peppers

• 8 bell peppers

• 1 cup rice

• 2 tablespoons currants or raisins

• 5 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 medium onions, chopped

• 2 tablespoons pine nuts, optional

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 large tomato, chopped

• 2 teaspoons sugar

• 1 teaspoon ground allspice

• 1-3/4 cups vegetable stock

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Place the peppers in a deep bowl and pour boiling water over them. Weight them down to keep them under the water. Let rest for 5 minutes. Drain and repeat the process with cold water. Cut a lid from the top of the peppers, but reserve the lids. Scoop out and discard the seeds and membranes. Set the peppers aside. Place the rice and currants in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let rest for 30 minutes. Drain. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and pine nuts, if used, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes or until the onion has softened and is slightly golden. Add the rice and currants and some salt and pepper to taste. Cook for another 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomato, sugar and allspice and cook for another minute, stirring occasionally. Add the stock, bring to a boil, cover the pan and lower the heat. Cook for 18-20 minutes or until the rice is soft and all the liquid has been absorbed. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the parsley, dill, mint and lemon juice. Let cool. Use to fill the peppers. Place lids on top. (You may prepare to this point and cook later). Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the peppers in a baking dish. Add 2 cups of water to the dish. Bake the peppers for 40 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving (warm or at room temperature).

Makes 8 servings

Spinach and Cheese Bourekas

Many years ago I learned to make spinach pie, loaded with crumbled feta cheese and seasoned with fresh dill. My family absolutely loved it, so it was — still is — a regular item on my menu. It’s almost always part of my break-the-fast feast.

Most of the time I make spinach pie using buttered layers of phyllo pastry, which makes for a crispy, delicate crust for the savory spinach filling below.

But we like the dish so much that on Passover, I top the pie with buttered matzo.

At one time I used the filling for spanakopitas, making spinach-filled layers of phyllo dough into small triangles. These were perfect as hors d’oeuvre and I would make dozens at a time and stock them in the freezer.

That was a LOT of work!

This year, thanks to inspiration from my Facebook friend Dana Shrager (@Danastable), who posted her recipe for spinach and cheese bourekas as a treat for Purim, I realized that I could make those wonderful hors d’oeuvres again using puff pastry, as she suggested!

SO MUCH EASIER!

I made a whole bunch of these, using my recipe for spinach pie as filling but using puff pastry. All I can say is that I will never go back to phyllo dough for these hors d’oeuvres. My tasters gobbled these down and I served them again to everyone’s absolute delight.

Thanks Dana, for your suggestion to use puff pastry and also that these, triangular shape that they are, would be perfect for Purim. Yes. They are indeed!

Here’s the recipe for spinach and cheese filling and instructions on how to make the triangle bourekas.

Spinach and Cheese Bourekas

• 1 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 large egg

• 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

• 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 sheets puff pastry, defrosted

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Squeeze as much water out of the spinach as possible and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the spinach and mix well. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the egg, feta cheese, Parmesan cheese, dill and pepper. Mix well and set aside. Using one sheet at a time, roll the puff pastry on a lightly floured board slightly thinner (I did 12”x9”). Cut each sheet on the long side into 4 equal strips (3”). Cut the strips into thirds (making 12 pieces). Place equal amounts of the filling in the center of each piece of dough. Fold the dough to enclose the filling and make a triangle. Press the edges to seal them. If necessary, wet the edges of the pieces before folding, OR, press the edges down with the tines of a fork. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before baking. Bake for about 15-18 minutes or until browned and crispy.

Makes 24

Chocolate Yogurt Bread

A few days ago @DanaLShrager (@JewishCooking Facebook group) asked for ideas — other than hamantashen — about what might make good mishloach manot for Purim. My suggestions included muffins, quickbreads and other homemade food goodies.

Like this chocolate bread. It’s rich and tender because it’s made with yogurt. It’s also easy to prepare and can be wrapped nicely to give away as a gift. You can add raisins or chopped nuts, or even leave out the chips. For sure, it’s a winner for Purim or any time.

Chocolate Yogurt Bread

• 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate

• 1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1-1/4 cups sugar

• 1/3 cup vegetable shortening

• 2 large eggs

• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 1-1/2 cups plain yogurt

• 1/2 cup chocolate chips, optional

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9”x5” loaf pan. Melt the chocolate and set it aside to cool. Mix the flour, baking soda and salt together and set it aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer set at medium, cream the sugar and shortening together. Add the eggs and vanilla extract and beat the mixture until it is smooth and creamy. Add the flour mixture, alternating with the yogurt. Stir in the chocolate and mix until ingredients are well blended. Stir in the chips, if used. Pour the batter into the loaf pan. Bake for 50-55 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then invert onto a rack to cool completely. Makes one bread

Grandma's Stewed Fruit

Many of us over a certain age remember Grandma’s stewed fruit!

I call this Grandma’s Stewed Fruit even though it is way different than my grandma’s version, but I’m the grandma now……. and this is one of the many ways my grandkids have tasted this iconic dish.

It is one of the dishes I cooked for my Tu B’shevat class last week at Temple Beth El in Stamford, CT. I’ve made this so many times and keep changing the fruit, depending on what I actually have in my cupboard. The poaching liquid too — sometimes I use a different juice or add some white wine (I particularly love a German sweet wine). And of course — the seasonings. Cinnamon is always good but there’s also cloves, cardamom, dried coriander, mace, etc. to consider.

It’s always delicious, no matter how you cook it.

Eat some with yogurt for breakfast. Use it for dessert! Remember this for Passover. Or Break-the-fast. It’s versatile, attractive, useful, make-ahead! No wonder this is such an icon of Jewish cuisine.

Grandma’s Stewed Fruit 

• 2 cups orange or orange/pineapple juice

• 1-1/2 cups water

• 1/4 cup maple syrup

• 1 3” cinnamon stick

• 2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger

• 1 teaspoon cloves

• 6-8 whole dried figs

• 6-8 pitted Medjool dates

• 1 cup dried apricot halves

• 8-10 prunes

• 1/2 cup golden raisins

Place the water, juice, maple syrup, cinnamon stick, ginger and cloves in a saucepan large enough to hold all the fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the figs, dates, apricots, prunes and raisins and simmer another 15-20 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. Discard the cinnamon stick and cloves. Let cool. Serve with the poaching liquid.

Makes 8 servings

Stirfried Couscous with Chicken, Dried Apricots and Pistachios

Stirfried Couscous with Chicken, Dried Apricots and Pistachios

This is one of the dishes from my class last night at Temple Beth El in Stamford, Connecticut. It was such a lovely evening! The focus was foods for Tu B’Shevat (sort of an Israeli Earth Day), which is always such a big winner as far as food is concerned because we get to eat lots of fruit, including dried fruit, which I love. And everyone who attended the demo seemed to love too.

The recipe is Stirfried Chicken with Dried Apricots and Pistachios, from my book, Hip Kosher. As I explained, this is a versatile dish! I used couscous but you can also use rice or any other whole grain, like farro or barley.

And you can use different fruit — figs, dried cranberries and so on.

I’ve made this dish with lamb chunks too and it’s also delicious.

Or go vegetarian. Leave out the meat and use tofu or peas or water chestnuts and so on.

Pistachios are my favorite for this but cashews would work too.

I say this dish is perfect for Tu B’Shevat but really, it’s for all-year.

Stir-Fried Couscous with Chicken, Dried Apricots and Pistachios (from Hip Kosher)

• 1-3/4 cups Israeli couscous

• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 16-20 ounces boneless chicken, cut into bite-size chunks

• 4 thick scallions, chopped

• 1 cup chopped dried apricots

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1 cup shelled pistachios

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Make the couscous according to the package directions. Set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a wok, stir-fry pan, or sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and stir-fry for about 4 minutes or until the meat is white and cooked through. Dish out and set aside. Place the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in the pan. Add the scallions and cook for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Add the apricots, cumin, and cinnamon and cook briefly, stirring constantly. Add the couscous and chicken and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes to distribute the ingredients well. Stir in the pistachio nuts. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Eat hot or let cool to lukewarm.

Makes 4 servings.

Braised Chicken with Figs and Grapes

I recently bought a whole bunch of dried figs, dates, plums (prunes) and California apricots in preparation for a Tu B’Shevat food demo/class I am doing for Temple Beth El in Stamford, CT on Thursday, January 18th, 2024 (it’s free, so if you’re in the area, give us a call).

Tu B’Shevat is a joyous holiday, a kind of Earth Day, when we celebrate and try to be mindful of our planet and its resources. This was a day I remember my parents donating money to plant trees in Israel.

With its focus on earth’s bounty, the food for this holiday features lots of fruit, including those dried fruits I mentioned. Like this chicken dish, which is braised with apple cider (sometimes I use orange juice or orange-pineapple juice), seasoned with curry and ginger and of course, includes dried figs (though any dried fruit will do!).

braised CHICKEN WITH FIGS AND GRAPES

• 1-3/4 cups apple cider (or use orange or orange-pineapple juice)

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 6 bone-in pieces of chicken

• 1 shallot, chopped (or use a small onion)

• 1-1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 1/2 cup diced dried figs (or use other dried fruit such as prunes, apricots, nectarines or dates)

• 2-1/2 teaspoons curry powder

• 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or use 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup halved fresh grapes

• chopped fresh mint

• cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles, optional

Boil the cider for about 5 minutes or until it has reduced to 3/4 cup. Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8-10 minutes, or until lightly browned, turning the pieces occasionally. Remove the chicken pieces and set them aside on a plate. Add the shallot, ginger and diced figs to the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes over low-medium heat. Return the chicken to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with curry powder, Aleppo pepper and salt and black pepper to taste. Pour in the reduced cider. Turn the pieces of chicken to coat all sides with the pan ingredients. Cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Add the grapes and cook for an additional 10 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with chopped fresh mint. Serve on a bed of cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles if desired.

Makes 4-6 servings

Spinach Pie

Every Hanukkah in our family, we retell the story of Judith, who played a major role in the Maccabees’ victory some 2000 years ago. According to the story, Judith visited Holofernes, a general in the enemy camp; he fell in love with her and asked her to dine with him.

During the meal Judith gave him great quantities of cheese, which made him very thirsty! To quench his thirst he drank so much wine that he fell asleep and Judith cut off his head with his own sword.

Thus was she able to get word to the Maccabees about the best time to strike.

Note: there are dozens of artworks depicting the event, including this well-known painting which hangs in the Uffizi gallery.

Since that fateful victory we have been making merry every year with an 8 day Hanukkah celebration.

Our celebrations are known to include latkes!

But did you know that the first “traditional” Hanukkah ingredient was cheese!

And that’s because of Judith.

Long ago it was Cheese Latkes that Jewish cooks prepared for Hanukkah.

But so many people couldn’t afford cheese so they substituted potato. Not bad, that.

Still. I always serve something made with cheese, every Hanukkah.

This year, how about this Cheese-loaded Spinach Pie to to remember the brave, intrepid Judith?

Cheese Loaded Spinach PIE

•  1 tablespoon butter

• 1/4 cup chopped red onion

• 6 ounces fresh spinach

• 1 partially baked 9-inch pie crust

• 3-4 ounces grated Swiss cheese

• 4 large eggs

• 2 cups half and half cream

• salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the red onion and cook for 1-2 minutes to soften it slightly. Add the spinach and cook for another 2-3 minutes or until the spinach is completely wilted. If there is liquid in the pan, continue to cook until the spinach is dry (alternatively, place in a strainer and press out the excess liquid). Place the spinach inside the partially baked pie crust. Sprinkle the cheese on top. Beat the eggs and cream together with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the ingredients in the pie crust. Bake for 40-45 minutes or until golden brown and set.

Makes 6-8 servings

Zucchini Latkes with Cheese

Anyone who knows me knows that the humble potato is my favorite food, so of course I am going to make potato latkes for Hanukkah!

But, ya know …. it’s a long, delicious holiday, so there’s time for zucchini latkes too. The recipe here includes cheese, because on Hanukkah I like to prepare food with cheese in honor of Judith, heroine of Hanukkah! You can read about it here.

Of course you can make these latkes without the cheese. They’re delicious either way.

Zucchini Latkes with Cheese

• 2 medium zucchini (10-12 ounces each)

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 cup chopped red onion

• 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

• 2 large eggs

• 1/2 cup plain bread crumbs, approximately (Matzo meal also fine)

• vegetable oil for frying

Shred the zucchini in a food processor (or grate by hand). Place the shreds in a bowl, sprinkle with salt, toss the shreds and let rest for 10-12 minutes. Squeeze the shreds to extract as much liquid as possible. Return the shreds to the bowl. Add the onion, cheese and eggs and mix the ingredients. Add the bread crumbs and mix thoroughly. If the mixture seems too loose or soft, add another tablespoon or two (different bread crumbs absorb liquid/moisture differently). Heat about 1/8-inch vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Spoon portions of the mixture into the pan to make latkes about 2-inches in diameter. Leave some space between each one. Cook for 2-3 minutes per side or until crispy and golden brown. Remove to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining zucchini mixture. Serve with dairy sour cream or plain yogurt or mashed avocado.

Makes about 12