Gougeres for the Win!

These little puffs of crispy pastry are an absolute gift to anyone who cooks. Choux pastry — once you make it the first time you understand how fabulous these are. Make them plain and they are profiteroles (pour some fudge sauce over them). Add cheese and herbs and they become gougeres for cocktail nibbles (eat them as is or cut them open and fill with all sorts of things such as egg salad or smoked trout). Make them plain and bigger and they’re cream puffs. Lots of variations. Here’s one for Choux pastry swans.

In the meantime, here’s the recipe for gougeres:

Herb and Cheese Gougeres (Choux Puffs)

• 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons water

• 1/4 pound unsalted butter, cut into chunks

• 1 cup all purpose flour

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 4 large eggs

• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh mixed herbs, or 1-1/2 teaspoons dried

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese

• pinch cayenne pepper

• egg glaze: 1 large egg mixed with 2 teaspoons water, optional

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cook the water and butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the flour and salt all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is well blended and begins to come away from the sides of the pan. Remove pan from the heat and let the
mixture cool for 2-3 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, blending thoroughly after each addition. Add the herbs, cheese and cayenne pepper and blend them in thoroughly. Drop 1-inch mounds of dough from a teaspoon onto a lightly greased baking sheet. Leave space between the mounds for the puffs to rise. For a
shiny surface on the puffs, lightly brush the tops of the mounds with some of the egg wash. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until the puffs are lightly brown and crispy. Lower the heat to 300 degrees and bake for another 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat but leave the puffs in the oven for 3-4 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Or cut them open and fill them.

Makes about 60

Fruit and Oat Bars

When the grandkids are at camp or some summer program away, I send cookies.

I don’t send any that include nuts or peanut products in case of allergies. Typically, the gift box is filled with the usual favorites: Fannies (thumbprint butter cookies) and Grand Finale cookies (oatmeal-raisin chocolate chip cookies).

Frankly, I was getting a bit bored baking the same stuff, so, although I did bake the usual, I also sent some Saint Cupcake’s Brownie cookies, from a recipe I got from a friend who once owned a bakery in Portland, Oregon. They are the best chocolate cookies I ever tasted.

And I sent these fabulous fruit-and-oat bars, which were wildly successful with the kids and also the grownups left at home (I made enough for a mob).

Next time you’re looking for a summer camp goodie box or just want a tasty snack — think of these. They also make a nice gift of Purim mishloach manot.

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Fruit and Oat Bars

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1-1/2 cups quick cooking oats

• 1 cup brown sugar

• 3/4 cup butter or margarine

• 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

• 1/2 cup chopped dates

• 1/4 cup dried cranberries

• 13-14 ounce jar orange marmalade (1-1/2 cups)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9”x13” cake pan. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl. Add the oats and brown sugar and mix the ingredients thoroughly to distribute them evenly. Cut the butter into chunks and work into the dry ingredients (with fingers or process on pulse in a food processor) until the butter is completely mixed in and the mixture looks crumbly. Mix in the apricots, dates and cranberries. Press the mixture evenly inside the prepared pan. Spread the marmalade evenly on top. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool in the pan. Cut into bars or squares.

Makes 24-36

Hanukkah Muffin Tin Doughnuts (Duffins)

Remember a few years ago there was a new bakery item called a duffin?

It’s a cross between a doughnut and a muffin. It became world famous but began in the U.K. at a famous tea room called Bea’s. Then Starbucks sold a version of it and it was a hot item for a while.

I remember duffins because I made them at home and everyone loved them. Unlike classic doughnuts, they are incredibly easy to prepare and taste absolutely wonderful, so for me, these are the best choice when you want a homemade Hanukkah doughnut but don’t want the fry-mess and the fried-food-kitchen-odor.

My version (the recipe first appeared in The Jewish Week) is also dairy-free but you can substitute dairy milk or cream for the coconut milk, and you can brush the surface of the baked muffin with melted butter, then roll it in sugar and stuff it with jam (that’s the way it was done at Bea’s). Also, you can cut them (or use a pastry tube) and fill them with whipped cream or sweetened mascarpone cheese. Or jam.

Btw, I don’t call them duffins because I don’t want to get into legal or social media trouble. So for me, these are simply Hanukkah Muffin Tin Doughnuts.

Hanukkah Muffin Tin Doughnuts (Duffins)

• 1 cup sugar

• 1 large egg

• 3/4 cup coconut milk (or use dairy milk or cream or other nondairy milk)

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease 10 muffin tin wells. Place the sugar and egg in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer at medium speed for 1-2 minutes or until light, thick and smooth. Add the coconut milk, vegetable oil and vanilla and mix for 1-2 minutes or until they are thoroughly blended. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together. Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture and beat at medium speed for a minute or until well blended. Fill the muffin wells about 3/4 full. Bake for 18-20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool for 5 minutes. While the doughnuts are baking, mix the confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon together. After the doughnuts are baked, but still warm, sprinkle the tops with the cinnamon sugar.

Makes 10 

Apricot Puff Pastry Galettes

The fresh apricots have been glorious this summer. We’ve eaten them plain. I’ve used them for poached fruit and, best of all, for these EASY EASY to make tarts using packaged, frozen puff pastry.

The tarts in the photo were glazed with ginger preserves but I’ve also used apricot and peach jams. Occasionally I sprinkle some fresh chopped rosemary on top before baking.

Apricot Puff Pastry Galettes

• 4 puff pastry squares (4-inch)

• 4 apricots, sliced

• 2 tablespoons sugar

• freshly grated nutmeg

• 3 tablespoons ginger (or other) preserves, heated

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the pastry squares on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Prick the dough in a few places. Arrange equal amounts of the fruit on top of each square, leaving a border of 1/2-inch. Sprinkle equal amounts of the sugar on top of the fruit. Grate a small amount of nutmeg on top. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown. Brush the top with preserves. Place back in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Eat warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 servings

Blueberry Scones

More treats from the piles of blueberries I’ve been buying. These scones aren’t too sweet, so they’re nice for breakfast. Sometimes I sprinkle the unbaked scones with turbinado sugar if I’m going to serve them with tea or coffee in the afternoon - they’re sweeter and prettier with the sugar crystals on top.

Blueberry Scones

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons sugar

• 2-1/4 teaspoons baking powder

• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel      

• 6 tablespoons butter

• 1 large egg

• 1/2 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt

• 1 cup blueberries

• Turbinado sugar, optional

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly grease a cookie sheet or line it with parchment paper. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon peel in a bowl. Add the butter in chunks and work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Mix the egg and buttermilk together and add them to the dry ingredients. Mix until a soft dough forms. Add the blueberries and gently mix the dough to incorporate them, taking care not to crush the fruit. Break the dough in half and place on a floured surface. Press each half into a circle about 3/4” thick. Cut each circle into six wedges and place on the prepared cookie sheet. Sprinkle with some turbinado sugar if desired. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the scones are browned and well risen.

Makes 12

Coconut Meringue Cookies

I’ve been baking lots of gluten-free butter cookies lately, experimenting for Passover — using our family “fannies” or butter cookies as a base. But because the recipes use egg yolks I had a ton of whites left over. So …… I’ve also been experimenting with meringues (see how-to whip egg whites) and decided to use some for cookies. These coconut cookies are not only an easy way to use meringue but they are tender and sweet and perfect for Passover.

Here’s how: mix 2 cups of meringue (recipe below) with 1-1/2 to 2 cups shredded coconut (amount depends on the size of the shreds: you need enough to form a soft “dough”). Place blobs of the dough (about 1-1/2 inches) on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Bake for 15-22 minutes or until lightly browned. Some people prefer these very light color; we like them honey colored.

I’ve now made these cookies several times. The less coconut you use, the softer and flatter the cookies will be. But either way, the cookies are tender, sweet and oh so tasty!

Meringue:

• 4 large egg whites at room temperature

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beat the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer with whisk attachment set at medium speed until the mixture is foamy. Add the lemon juice and salt and beat, gradually increasing the speed, until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat, gradually increasing the speed to high, until the mixture stands in stiff, glossy peaks. Stir in the vanilla extract.

Pear and Cranberry Strudel

My freezer failed a while ago.

Fortunately I discovered the problem before everything defrosted.

Still, with that error message signaling that I should call for service immediately, I brought most of the food to my spare freezer in the basement. I don’t want to give this old freezer a kinahurra so I won’t tell you how old it is.

I discarded lots of stuff too. Freezer burned, too old, no longer needed. Whatever.

And I cooked with some of the items that were partially defrosted (like this fabulous pizza) or because it was time to use them before they become fossils.

I had some seasonal pears on hand and some cranberries so I made strudel using a package of phyllo dough that I didn’t want to refreeze. I baked this dessert a few times: used most of the pears and cranberries. But I wanted to try the recipe using some dried cranberries (I had some in my pantry that also needed using before they dried beyond redemption).

We actually liked it better with the dried cranberries.

So here’s the recipe. If you don’t have dried cranberries, use any dried fruit: cherries would be especially good. Fresh cranberries work too — add a tablespoon more sugar.

PEAR AND CRANBERRY STRUDEL

• 1/2 cup dried cranberries

• 2 tablespoons orange juice

• 2 ripe pears, peeled, cored and cut into bite sized pieces

• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

• 8 sheets phyllo

• 3-4 tablespoons melted butter

• 1/4 cup sugar

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the dried cranberries in a bowl, pour the juice over them and let rest for 30-40 minutes or until they have softened. Place the pears in a mixing bowl. Add the flour, cinnamon, ginger, cranberries and any remaining orange juice and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Set aside. Working with one piece of phyllo at a time, brush the phyllo with a film of melted butter. Butter a second sheet and place it on top of the first. Repeat using two more sheets. Add the sugar to the pear mixture. Spoon half the pear mixture down the long side of the buttered phyllo, leaving an inch at each end. Roll the phyllo, enclosing the fruit mixture, then place seam-side down on the parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining four sheets of phyllo and the remaining pear mixture. Brush the tops of the phyllo rolls with the remaining melted butter. Bakes for about 25 minutes or until the pastry is browned and crispy.

Makes 2 rolls, each serving 4 people

Snails! The Dessert Kind (M'Hencha)

Years ago, when we were in Egypt, I tried this dessert, called m’hencha, because it looked so pretty.

It was like a Proustian moment because it tasted so similar to my Romanian Jewish grandma’s turte, which is like baklava only made with almonds instead of walnuts, and sweetened with sugar syrup, not honey.

Unlike my grandma’s version, m’hencha is shaped like a snail, which I think looks much lovelier and so I decided to make this for New Year’s, when the cousins come for a visit. (I’m using honey instead of the syrup my grandma used.)

I’ll be curious to see if my cousin also remembers this delicious pastry from back in the day.

M’Hencha

• 2-1/2 cups ground almonds

• 1/2 pound butter, melted

• 1/4 cup sugar

• 1-1/2 teaspoons grated fresh orange peel

• 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/2 pound phyllo dough

• 6-8 tablespoons honey

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Mix the almonds, 4 tablespoons melted butter, sugar, orange peel and cinnamon until well combined. Set aside. Using one phyllo sheet at a time, spread the dough out on a flat surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Top with the next phyllo sheet and repeat, using 4 sheets of phyllo. Spread about an inch of the almond mixture in a line about an inch from the edge on the long side. Roll the dough, jelly roll style, then coil it into a snake shape. Place the pastry on a cookie sheet. Brush with butter. Repeat 5 more times to make 6 pastries. Bake for about 25 minutes or until golden brown. While the pastries are baking, heat the honey until it is warm and liquefied. Pour the warm honey over the pastries and serve. NOTE: you can make smaller pastries: cut the phyllo sheets in half and proceed as above (makes 12).

Makes 6 servings

Banana Bread with Yogurt and Raisins

Banana bread with yogurt and raisins

Here it is — the latest in my “bought too many bananas so I’m gonna make banana bread” banana bread.

This one is moist, gently warmed with cinnamon and studded with raisins (although you could substitute dried cherries or cranberries and such). It looks lovely, both whole and when sliced. And I can tell you that all my usual tasters have said it was delicious.

Banana Bread with Yogurt and Raisins

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 2/3 cup sugar

• 1/3 cup vegetable oil

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 2 large eggs

• 1/2 cup plain yogurt (or dairy sour cream)

• 3 ripe medium bananas, mashed

• 1 cup raisins

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9”x5”x3” loaf pan. Mix the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl and set aside. Mix the sugar and vegetable oil together in the bowl of an electric mixer set at medium speed for 1-2 minutes or until thoroughly combined. Add the vanilla extract and eggs and beat them in until well combined. Add the yogurt and bananas and blend them in thoroughly. Add the flour mixture and blend it in. Fold in the raisins. Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Bake for about one hour or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean.

Makes one loaf

Pear and Cranberry Strudel

My freezer failed a while ago.

Fortunately I discovered the problem before everything defrosted.

Still, with that error message signaling that I should call for service immediately, I brought most of the food to my spare freezer in the basement. I don’t want to give this old freezer a kinahurra so I won’t tell you how old it is.

I discarded lots of stuff too. Freezer burned, too old, no longer needed. Whatever.

And I cooked with some of the items that were partially defrosted (like this fabulous pizza) or because it was time to use them before they become fossils.

I had some seasonal pears on hand and some cranberries so I made strudel using a package of phyllo dough that I didn’t want to refreeze. I baked this dessert a few times: used most of the pears and cranberries. But I wanted to try the recipe using some dried cranberries (I had some in my pantry that also needed using before they dried beyond redemption).

We actually liked it better with the dried cranberries.

So here’s the recipe. If you don’t have dried cranberries, use any dried fruit: cherries would be especially good. Fresh cranberries work too — add a tablespoon more sugar.

Pear and Cranberry Strudel

• 1/2 cup dried cranberries

• 2 tablespoons orange juice

• 2 ripe pears, peeled, cored and cut into bite sized pieces

• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

• 8 sheets phyllo

• 3-4 tablespoons melted butter

• 1/4 cup sugar

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the dried cranberries in a bowl, pour the juice over them and let rest for 30-40 minutes or until they have softened. Place the pears in a mixing bowl. Add the flour, cinnamon, ginger, cranberries and any remaining orange juice and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Set aside. Working with one piece of phyllo at a time, brush the phyllo with a film of melted butter. Butter a second sheet and place it on top of the first. Repeat using two more sheets. Add the sugar to the pear mixture. Spoon half the pear mixture down the long side of the buttered phyllo, leaving an inch at each end. Roll the phyllo, enclosing the fruit mixture, then place seam-side down on the parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining four sheets of phyllo and the remaining pear mixture. Brush the tops of the phyllo rolls with the remaining melted butter. Bakes for about 25 minutes or until the pastry is browned and crispy.

Makes 2 rolls, each serving 4 people