Russian Food

Potato and Cheese Pierogies/Kreplach

I've learned that after Passover most people I know want pizza or a bagel. But I want what I always want. My favorite dish on the planet: Kreplach/pieorgies (poached or fried) stuffed with potato and cheese and served with sour cream.

POTATO-CHEESE KREPLACH/PIEROGIES

FILLING:

  • 3 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about one pound), peeled, cut into chunks (about 3 cups mashed potatoes)

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • 1 large onion, chopped

  • 1 cup farmer cheese

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potato chunks in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Drain the potatoes and spoon into a bowl. While the potatoes are cooking, heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes or until soft and golden brown. Add the onions to the potatoes. Add the farmer cheese, sprinkle with salt and pepper and mix the ingredients until well blended. Set aside to cool before filling the dough.

DOUGH:

  • 3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1/4 cup butter, cut into chunks

  • 2/3 cup water, approximately

  • 1 cup dairy sour cream

Place the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the dough until the mixture is crumbly. Add 1/2 cup of the water and the sour cream and mix the dough until it is smooth, soft and well blended. If the dough seems too dry, add more water. (You can do this in a food processor.) Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes. Using portions of the dough, roll the dough on a floured surface to 1/8-inch thick. Cut the dough into 3-3-1/2” squares. Place about one tablespoon of the filling onto each square. Slightly wet 2 sides of the square along the border. Fold the dough over the filling to make a triangle, pressing down onto the moist strips to seal the dough. Use the back of a fork to press the edges. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the filled kreplach, 8-10 at a time, and simmer for about 15 minutes or until they are tender. Remove the kreplach with a slotted spoon and set aside; repeat.

Serve with sour cream and chopped chives or scallion tops.

Makes about 30

Pureed Borscht

I have several really good recipes for borscht: seasoned with cumin and rye bread crumbs; made with cauliflower instead of cabbage; seasoned with orange and mint. It’s one of my favorite soups and actually kind of a miracle because it’s just as good and pleasing when it’s chunky and served hot during the cold winter months and equally wonderful and satisfying when it’s pureed and served cold during the summer.

Try this version next time you have a yen for borscht:

Classic Borscht

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 1 large onion, chopped

  • 4 medium beets, peeled and shredded

  • 3 tomatoes, chopped

  • 2 parsnips, peeled and shredded

  • 2 carrots, peeled and shredded

  • 2 stalks celery, sliced

  • 1/2 medium green cabbage, shredded

  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

  • 8 cups vegetable stock

  • 1 bay leaf

  • 1-1/2 teaspoons salt or to taste

  • freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 3 all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced

  • 6 tablespoons white vinegar, approximately

  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  • dairy sour cream or plain Greek style yogurt

  • chopped chives or scallion tops for garnish

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the beets, tomatoes, parsnips, carrots, celery, cabbage and parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, one hour. Add the potatoes and cook for 45 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and dill and cook for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or vinegar to taste. Remove the bay leaf. Puree the soup and chill for at least one hour or until cold. Serve garnished with a dollop of sour cream and chopped chives.

 Makes 10 servings

Borscht with Cauliflower

Borscht with Cauliflower

Like most everyone I know, I overindulged over the December holidays. So, it’s time for some austerity — caloriewise, healthwise — with the menu.

But I like good food. Tasty food. Filling, satisfying food that looks good enough to please.

This soup has it all. It’s a riff on classic Borscht — cabbage is the foundation of Borscht but I didn’t have any! So I used cauliflower. It’s in the cabbage family after all. Mishpocha maybe.

It was perfect.

Borscht with Cauliflower

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 1 clove garlic, chopped

  • 2 medium-large beets, peeled and shredded

  • 2 plum tomatoes, chopped

  • 1 parsnip, peeled and shredded

  • 2 cups cut up cauliflower

  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

  • 6 cups vegetable stock

  • 1 bay leaf

  • 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

  • freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 1 large Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

  • 3 tablespoons white vinegar, approximately

  • 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  • dairy sour cream or plain Greek style yogurt, optional

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, beets, tomatoes, parsnip, cauliflower and parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, one hour. Add the potato and cook for 45-60 minutes or until the vegetables have softened. Stir in the vinegar and dill and cook for 12-15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or vinegar to taste. Remove the bay leaf. If the soup is cooked using vegetable stock, serve it garnished with a dollop of sour cream if desired. 

Makes 6-8 servings

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

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By some extraordinary piece of luck, every year a tomato plant that I never planted pops up and makes its appearance in my garden.

The plant grows and grows into a jungle with stalks that I hold up with a multitude of stakes and ties. It reminds me of Jack and the Beanstalk (am I dating myself with that one?). And the stalks are loaded, absolutely loaded, with what becomes the sweetest, most delicious cherry tomatoes ever.

I am guessing that the thing grows from a seed or two that must have planted itself from either some other plant somewhere (but not my garden because I don’t have other plants with this variety of tomato) or maybe from the remains of some outdoor patio lunch or dinner at which I served that kind of tomato.

Whatever the reason, the plant comes back every year in the same place, just as thick and fecund as ever.

Nature is glorious.

But of course, after a while the cold weather comes and dozens of tomatoes are still growing and I have to harvest them before the frost. They’re green of course, so, what to do?

In past years I’ve breaded and fried the small green tomatoes. These glorious tidbits are crunchy outside and soft inside and when you bite into them you get a spurt of fresh, tart tomato juice. They are really good as hors d’oeuvre.

I’ve also used the tomatoes to make chutney. I cooked this new version recently, because I had some apples and grapes on hand.

We love chutney as a side relish with roasted meat and chicken. I also serve it on crackers spread with a bit of cream cheese and have used a thin layer on top of cheese to make a super delicious and unusual grilled cheese sandwich.

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

  • 2 cups green cherry tomatoes, halved (or use chopped green tomatoes)

  • 2 cups seedless grapes

  • 1 cup raisins

  • 2 apples, peeled, cored and diced

  • 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped

  • 3 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar

  • 1 cup brown sugar

  • 1/2 cup water

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 2 dried chili peppers (or one small chopped fresh chili pepper)

  • 2 teaspoons mustard seeds

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

     

Place the tomatoes, grapes, raisins, apples, onions, garlic, ginger, vinegar, brown sugar, water, salt, chili peppers, mustard seed and coriander in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2-1/2 to 3 hours or until very thick.

 Makes about one quart