Dairy Free Broccoli Kugel

Here’s my best advice on how to make Thanksgiving dinner easier: cook as much ahead as you can. 

That includes mashed potatoes.

Yes, mashed potatoes do taste better when you eat them immediately after mashing and mixing them with whatever you mix them with. But do you really think anyone you know will actually taste the difference if you make the mashed potatoes the day before?

Really?

Over the years I’ve learned to make lots of the food ahead for holiday meals. There’s just too much to do and too much to serve on those occasions to have to bother with anything but gravy at the last minute.

One thing I’ve found helpful is to make casserole type vegetable and side dishes instead of, say, plain steamed string beans or stir-fried broccoli, which we love at everyday dinners. Those need to be cooked at the last minute and keep me in the kitchen rather than enjoying the time with my family.

Besides, if you have a crowd, by the time you serve everything (like the turkey and stuffing and cranberry sauce), plain steamed vegetables have already become too cold.

Right?

Casserole vegetables can be made a day or so ahead and heated through. There’s no day-of prep. They stay hot in the serving dish. 

Some of my favorite of these types of side dishes are spinach pie, sweet potato casserole, succotash, kugel, ratatouille. And so on. 

This year one of the dishes at our dinner will be Broccoli Kugel. It’s almost quiche-like but there’s no crust, and it’s made with coconut milk, which makes it rich and vaguely sweet. I add chopped chili peppers to give it some balance. You can get this dish ready for cooking a day ahead and bake it on Thanksgiving Day, or cook it completely and reheat.

By the way, broccoli has a much better, more tender texture if you peel the thick stems. Here’s how: peeling broccoli

Broccoli Kugel 

  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 1 bunch (2 stems) fresh broccoli, coarsely cut 

  • 1 large onion, chopped

  • 1 serrano or other chili pepper, deseeded and chopped

  • 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

  • 15 ounce can coconut milk

  • 4 large eggs, beaten

  • salt to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9”x13” baking dish using some of the vegetable oil. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the broccoli and cook for 2 minutes. Drain under cold water; chop the broccoli into small pieces. Set aside in a bowl. Heat the remaining vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and chili pepper and cook for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Transfer the onion mixture to the bowl with the broccoli. In another bowl, beat the coconut milk and eggs together. Add the egg mixture to the vegetables. Season to taste with salt. Spoon into the prepared baking dish. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until browned.

Makes 8 servings

 

Kale and White Bean Soup with Egg and Cheese

During Hurricane Sandy we lost power for 6 days and it was cold, cold, cold in the house. Then we got an early snowstorm, and we didn’t lose power, but it took me over 5 hours to get home, driving on icy roads.

It’s only November. There’s an entire winter ahead and from the looks of things, I’m thinking it’s going to be cold and stormy.

That has inspired me to think: SOUP.

Soup is good, isn’t it? Like a liquid electric blanket that warms you up inside and out.

Soup. Now that the stormy season is here, it’s what’s for dinner at my house.

Like this one:

Kale and White Bean Soup with Egg and Cheese

  • 1 pound kale

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 large onion, chopped

  • 2 cans cannellini beans (about 15 ounces each)

  • 6 cups vegetable stock

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 4 large eggs

  • 4 slices Italian-style bread, cut one-inch thick

  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Wash the kale leaf by leaf to remove any dirt or sand. Remove and discard the thick stems. Cut the leaves and thin stems into shreds. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3-4 minutes or until softened and beginning to brown. Mash half the beans and add them to the pan. Add the stock and bring the liquid to a boil. Add the kale, remaining beans and some salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover the pan and cook for 20 minutes. Beat the eggs. Gently pour small portions of the beaten egg into the soup in different places around the pan. Do not stir for 2 minutes. While the eggs are cooking, toast the bread. Stir the soup and ladle it into serving bowls. Top with the toast and sprinkle with cheese.

Makes 4 servings

Lemon Buttermilk Cake

Sarah Klinkowitz, a colleague of mine who writes a kosher blog called Food, Words & Photos (http://foodwordsphotos.com), posted a piece about some almond and chocolate candy she had made. Then she tweeted about it and I responded saying that I w…

Sarah Klinkowitz, a colleague of mine who writes a kosher blog called Food, Words & Photos (http://foodwordsphotos.com), posted a piece about some almond and chocolate candy she had made. Then she tweeted about it and I responded saying that I would really really love some. And she tweeted back “I know, you’d think I’d keep a fresh supply on hand at all times..but if I did, I would be in trouble!”

And I know exactly what that means.

Because there are certain foods I never, or almost never buy or cook, and if I do buy or cook them I get rid of them quickly because otherwise I would be in trouble.

Like potato chips and Fannies (butter cookies) and Grand Finale cookies.

Every once in a while I relent and buy a package of Herr’s unsalted, my favorite potato chips. I can say that now the bag lasts a few days, so that’s an improvement.

But recently we had that horrendous hurricane and I had to get rid of most of the stuff in my fridge and freezer and the first thing I did when the power was back on and the kitchen cleaned, was bake. Some Fannies and Grand Finale cookies. And true to form, I have been nibbling ever since.

I think it’s that salty-sweet thing I can’t resist.

Funny though, there are some foods that I love and yet I am satisfied with a taste now and then. Foods that I can keep in the freezer without fear of raiding on a nightly basis. Like Apple Pie and Lemon Buttermilk Cake.

Is it because cookies are small, making them easy to eat straight from the freezer? Or that the other foods I love are satisfying enough so that I don’t need more for a while? Like a great book that comes to an end and it’s okay because the story doesn’t need any more?

I’ll think about that as I sit with the current book I’m reading (In the Garden of Beasts: Love, Terror, and an American Family in Hitler’s Berlin, by Erik Larson) while snacking on some Lemon Buttermilk Cake.

Lemon Buttermilk Cake

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 pound butter

2 cups sugar

3 large eggs

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup grated fresh lemon peel

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Glaze:

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup sugar

Grease a 10-cup bundt pan, then sprinkle the insides with flour or plain dry bread crumbs. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift the flour, salt and baking soda together and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer set at medium, cream the butter and sugar together for 3-4 minutes or until smooth and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the buttermilk. Beat after each addition and scrape the sides of the bowl occasionally. Add the lemon peel and lemon juice and stir into the batter. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about one hour or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven. Mix the glaze ingredients and brush some onto the surface of the cake (it will become the bottom) while it is cooling in the pan. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes then invert onto a cake rack. Brush the remaining glaze over all the remaining surface area of the cake. Let cool and serve. Makes 16 servings

Roasted Chicken and Carrots

When I was in high school our class read “A Dissertation Upon Roast Pig.” It’s a tongue-in-cheek essay (by Charles Lamb) about a young boy in ancient China who burned his house down, along with some baby piglets. When the fire was …

When I was in high school our class read “A Dissertation Upon Roast Pig.” It’s a tongue-in-cheek essay (by Charles Lamb) about a young boy in ancient China who burned his house down, along with some baby piglets. When the fire was over he touched the charred animals and some of the crispy cracklings came off on his fingers, which he licked, and the fame of barbecued pork was assured.

I think we had to read this because it had dozens of fancy words that were sure to show up on our SATs. 

I recently read the essay again. I no longer have the SATs to worry about of course so I could actually concentrate on what Lamb said. And that got me to thinking that if I were writing it I would have chosen a different food.

Roast Chicken instead of roast pig.

There is no finer dinner than roast chicken. It’s festive without being fussy, visually beautiful, easy to prepare and not too expensive. It’s comfort food and also company food. The aroma of a roasting chicken in the oven is welcoming, especially on a cold night after we change to Standard Time and it gets dark early.

Ask a chef, even the most famous of them, to choose a favorite dinner and you might be surprised to learn how many would choose roast chicken.

All of what Lamb says about pig applies to chicken. I’ll give you one example. He describes the pig’s “exterior tegument … crisp, tawny, well-watched … the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at this banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance ….”

In other words, the golden brown skin has a terrific texture and tastes really delicious!

Anyway, you’re likely to find a lovely chicken ready for roasting any old time you’re at the supermarket. And any old time you’re at a loss as to what to cook for dinner for your family or even for company, you should definitely think about roasting a chicken. 

Is there a better dinner? I don’t think so.

Here’s an easy recipe. 

Plain Old Roasted Chicken 

1 roasting chicken, about 4-6 pounds

4-6 carrots

2-3 tablespoons olive oil

salt, garlic powder, paprika and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup orange juice, chicken stock or white wine

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Peel the carrots and cut them into thick strips. Place them in a roasting pan and pour in some of the olive oil. Toss the carrots to coat them with the olive oil. Rinse and dry the chicken; remove pinfeathers; remove the giblets. Rub the chicken with some of the olive oil. Sprinkle with salt, garlic powder, paprika and pepper. Place a rack over the carrots in the roasting pan and place the chicken breast side down on the rack. Roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Roast another 15 minutes. Pour the juice (or stock, wine) over the chicken and roast another 15 minutes. Turn chicken breast side up. Continue to roast, basting occasionally, for another 45-60 minutes or until fully cooked (a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast reads 160 degrees). Remove the chicken to a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Serve with the carrots and pan juices. Makes 6 servings

Short Ribs with Barbecue Sauce

It took me over 5 hours to get home last night. It usually takes 50-75 minutes.And in addition to the frightening drive on icy roads, I had barely 1/4 tank of gas.On my way in to NYC from Connecticut in the morning there were no open gas stations. G…

It took me over 5 hours to get home last night. It usually takes 50-75 minutes.

And in addition to the frightening drive on icy roads, I had barely 1/4 tank of gas.

On my way in to NYC from Connecticut in the morning there were no open gas stations. Going back home later, I found one on the highway — they only had regular and my car needs premium, but I bought some anyway. Which was a good thing because otherwise I never would have made it home.

We were stopped for over an hour because of the need to clear accidents on the icy road.

But I have to say that when we could drive, everyone was careful, cautious and respectful. I have never seen this kind of courtesy or caution before. No one drove faster than 10 MPH. No one switched lanes. No one tailgated. Everyone left enough room so that if a car skidded — which mine did 3-4 times — there would be plenty of room and time to straighten out.

Thank you, thank you, fellow drivers.

I learned from a storm long ago, to carry water and snacks in the car. I had graham crackers, pistachio nuts, a clementine and leftover coffee in a thermos.

It was the most nerve wracking drive I’ve ever taken. I spent the time listening to the radio in between thinking about what I would do if I hit another car or my car swerved off onto the grass or I ran out of gas.

I have to confess to more than one or two fantasies about my car skidding off the road, into the railing and over the edge into an icy stream. And about snow-laden trees falling on my car.

But I got home. And I was grateful to get home safely. It didn’t matter that it took so long. 

And I am lucky because there was a hot dinner, a set table and a glass of wine waiting for me.

I had cooked some short ribs recently and during the power outage they stayed cold in the freezer, the plastic container packed in ice. Ed put them in a casserole, put them in the oven and voila! dinner.

So, I recommend making a load of these, store them in portions in your freezer and then you can have dinner in a flash when needed too.

Stay safe everyone.

 

Short Ribs with Barbecue Sauce

 

5-6 pounds beef short ribs 

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, sliced

2 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

2 stalks celery, peeled and cut into chunks

2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

2 cups cubed, peeled butternut squash

1 cup ketchup 

1 cup red wine 

1 cup beer 

1 cup beef stock 

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 

2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce 

3 tablespoons brown sugar 

2-3 thyme sprigs 

1 bay leaf

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Dry the surface of the meat with paper towels. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Working in batches, cook the meat, turning the pieces to brown them, for 4-5 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add the onions, carrots, celery, parsnips and squash to the pan and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the ketchup. Pour in the red wine, beer, stock, cider vinegar and Worcestershire Sauce and stir the ingredients. Stir in the brown sugar. Return the meat to the pan and spoon some of the sauce over them. Place the thyme sprigs and bay leaf in the liquid. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook at a bare simmer for 4-5 hours or until the meat is fork tender (or place in the oven at 225 degrees). Makes 6 servings

 

Hummus with Zatar

I come from a talkative and political family, a family who discussed lots of different stuff at the table over dinner. I was the youngest child, but was still included, encouraged to have my say.I remember that we yakked about all sorts of things fr…

I come from a talkative and political family, a family who discussed lots of different stuff at the table over dinner. I was the youngest child, but was still included, encouraged to have my say.

I remember that we yakked about all sorts of things from what happened at school to when we were going shopping for new socks to why we had to take polio vaccinations to whether the government should put fluoride in the drinking water.

On the drive back from college one year my parents, brother and I discussed the merits of Medicare.

On that same trip — during the 1960s — we drove through Tennessee to visit my father’s sister and we were all aghast at the signs in the restaurants saying “we reserve the right to refuse service to anyone.” We knew what that meant and found it horrifying.

It prompted a family discussion about civil rights.

We were a lively bunch and, thinking back, a thinking bunch too. We actually cared about issues and people and what kind of country we were living in.

My parents and brothers always talked about the importance of voting. Not just because we were people who were passionate about issues, but because it is so important to exercise a right that so many people don’t have. And to voice your opinion.

Every vote counts. My one vote among the millions makes a difference. To the total tally and also to me, because if my candidates win I can feel proud to be part of the victory. And if they lose, well, it won’t be because of me.

Please vote everyone. You are too important not to.

I will be hosting an election night get-together, something I do every four years. My guests are friends and family who feel the commitment to vote as strongly as I do (including one of my brothers).

We’ll be having sandwiches (smoked fish, cream cheese, bagels) for dinner so we can eat in the family room and watch TV for hours.

But we’ll start with a few hors d’oeuvre. Including hummus.

I like zatar, the Middle Eastern spice blend, so I’ll make this easy hummus recipe and sprinkle the seasoning on top.

There will be popcorn for sure and leftover Halloween candy.

Plus a pie.

It’s always a comfort to share this evening with other people. I recommend it highly.

Please vote.

HUMMUS WITH ZATAR

 

1/3 cup pine nuts

1 15-ounce can chickpeas

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup tahini

1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

zatar

pita chips

 

Toast the pine nuts until lightly browned. Set aside. Drain the chickpeas but reserve the liquid. Place the chickpeas, lemon juice, tahini, olive oil, garlic, salt, cumin, parsley and pine nuts in a food processor. Add 4 tablespoons to 2/3 cup reserved bean liquid, depending on desired texture (start with the minimum). Process until blended to the desired texture. Place the hummus in a serving dish. Sprinkle with zatar. Serve with cut up pita wedges or pita chips.

Makes 1-1/2 cups

Orange Marmalade Cookies

A lot of people I know laugh at me because I always have a freezer packed with food. It’s that old “just in case company comes” mentality I learned from my mother.Or maybe it’s a “just in case” a hurricane comes and you don’t have power for 6 days a…

Orange Marmalade Cookies

A lot of people I know laugh at me because I always have a freezer packed with food. It’s that old “just in case company comes” mentality I learned from my mother.

Or maybe it’s a “just in case” a hurricane comes and you don’t have power for 6 days and not only do you need to eat up food that would otherwise spoil, you also want something sweet and delicious as a sort of consolation for not having light, heat, hot water and so on.

So I was really happy that my “just in case” packed freezer had some cookies. Among them, these oat-based bars, topped with crispy edged orange marmalade and stuffed with lots of chopped dried fruit.

I still have some left over, and that’s good because they will make for excellent nibbling on election night.

Orange Marmalade Cookies

  • 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1 teaspoon baking powder

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1-1/2 cups quick cooking oats

  • 1 cup brown sugar

  • 3/4 cup butter or margarine

  • 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

  • 1/2 cup chopped dates

  • 1/4 cup dried cranberries

  • 13-14 ounce jar orange marmalade (1-1/2 cups)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9”x13” cake pan. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl. Add the oats and brown sugar and mix the ingredients thoroughly to distribute them evenly. Cut the butter into chunks and work into the dry ingredients (with fingers or process on pulse in a food processor) until the butter is completely mixed in and the mixture looks crumbly. Mix in the apricots, dates and cranberries. Press the mixture evenly inside the prepared pan. Spread the marmalade evenly on top. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool in the pan. Cut into bars or squares.

Makes 24-36

My Empty Post-Hurricane Freezer

We’re back! We finally got our power back, after 6 full days without. Wow, it feels terrific and I am very very grateful. This was the worst storm I remember and sure, it was very inconvenient for us, but we didn’t suffer the terrible da…

We’re back! We finally got our power back, after 6 full days without. Wow, it feels terrific and I am very very grateful. This was the worst storm I remember and sure, it was very inconvenient for us, but we didn’t suffer the terrible damage we know others did.

So, we’re happy to be home.

The very first thing I did?

Make a fresh pot of coffee of course. I had put some jarred half and half cream in my freezer-ice bin and even after 6 days without power, the cream was still cold and good, so I was able to have the coffee just the way I like it.

Second? Ugh. Cleaning the fridge and freezer. Discarding the food (fortunately I was able to bring meat/poultry to my brother’s freezer), everything in the fridge and freezer except for a few bagels.

Time to start over. 

Back to cooking this week.