sprinklefingers: potato leek soup

sprinklefingers:

recipes and cooking are so funny. and by ‘funny’ i mean that they are sometimes a pain in the ass. the majority of people i know are so tied to recipes and have been using them for so long that their ability to improvise in the kitchen could be considered a lost art.

when i describe how i’ve made…

Most of my mother’s best recipes were lists of ingredients followed by the instruction “bake (or cook) as usual.”

In her youth there were few cookbooks and food magazines and certainly no internet with recipes from everyone, everywhere. A girl learned to cook by helping her mother get dinner together every day, so by the time she grew up and got married and had children of her own, she was well-equipped to get a good meal on the table for her own family.

But it’s not like that today. It’s been generations, in fact, since most women learned to cook at home. We all know why, so it’s not worth getting into here. But because of it people — men and women — who like to cook may no longer come to the task with any hands-on experience. And we’ve become so enamored of food in this country that the simple act of getting dinner on the table seem fraught, to many, with possible mishaps, if not terrors.

Hence: the cookbook, the precise recipe. It certainly can stifle creativity and it seems a shame that so many people need to follow so exactly out of fear or concern that they’ll get it wrong.

On the other hand, even though I grew up a daughter to a good cook who taught me the ins and outs of cooking, I didn’t know much about French cuisine and found Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, with its pages of detailed instructions, a real friend. Like the Julie of movie fame, I made many of the recipes, step by step (I did NOT go through the entire book!)

But after several dinners and several mistakes, I felt confident to expand on my own.

So I agree with Sprinklefingers that a good way to approach cooking if you’re a newbie with little, if any, kitchen experience, is to follow the recipes in a book but all the while consider what you might do differently if you were to change it. Like, what you would do if you liked brown rice better than white or preferred dill to thyme or only liked white meat chicken and you were using a recipe that called for a whole chicken. Or what you would add to the plain old Minestrone soup if you wanted to spice it up. Or whether that recipe for Grilled Cheese with a slice or two of pear and a sprinkle of curry powder would make it a little more interesting.

For me, the detail of Julia Child’s Mastering book helped me to understand the concept of the recipe better, but for someone else, a more laissez-faire, short-on-instruction approach may be more free-ing.

But whichever is best for you, the thing to remember is that cooking should be a pleasure and also, an opportunity for you to improvise to make the food so that it suits your tastes. Don’t let yourself get stuck feeling like a prisoner to a recipe. That makes cooking less enjoyable.

Sprinklefingers posted James Beard’s recipe for Potato and Leek Soup. One of my favorites. It’s one I made often, first, exactly as it was in the book. Then one day I had no leeks, so I substituted onions. Once I didn’t have enough potatoes so I added parsnips. And once I included carrots and peas. And once, I didn’t have potatoes, one of the soup’s main ingredients.

But I did have sweet potatoes, so I used them instead. That’s how, if you start out with a good cookbook and let yourself feel free to improvise you can end up with this recipe for

Sweet Potato Soup:

  • 2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 leeks, cleaned and chopped
  • 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 2 cups half and half cream
  • garnish: chopped chives, pita crisps, croutons, dollop of creme fraiche, etc.

 

Place the sweet potatoes in a saucepan of lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 20 minutes or until tender. Drain and set the potatoes aside in a bowl to cool. Add the butter to the saucepan and cook over medium heat until the butter has melted and looks foamy. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until softened. Add the sweet potatoes, stock, chives, thyme, ginger and a sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, cover the pan partially and cook for 20 minutes. Puree the soup in a blender (or with a hand blender) and return the puree to the pan. Stir in the half and half, whisk the ingredients thoroughly until well blended and heat through.  Garnish and serve.

Makes 6-8 servings

Roasted Salmon with Brown Rice Salad

Did anyone else gain 2 pounds overnight from Super Bowl food?

Two pounds!

Yes I realize it’s all salt. I can’t get my wedding band off even if I use lots of soap and that ring is usually a little large on my finger.

I have officially become my mother. Or maybe my grandmother. This is what happened to them when they ate salty foods.

For Super Bowl we always go to my brother’s house and Eileen, my sister-in-law, usually makes turkey breast. But she’s been busy lately so they served a full-deli: meats for sandwiches, potato salad plus 2 bags of potato chips (I’m not even counting the hors d’oeuvres a few hours before, including hot dog-in-blanket and Buffalo wings). 

So I spend an entire week trying to eat sensibly and maybe even lose a pound or four and then blow it all in one day on a plate of Lay’s because, they were right — you can’t eat just one.

Today: plain yogurt with dried apricots for breakfast. Not sure for lunch, maybe a hard cooked egg. Dinner? Fish. Maybe this recipe:

Roasted Salmon with Brown Rice Salad

1 cup brown rice

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 medium red onion, chopped

1/2 cup toasted chopped or slivered almonds

1 cup thawed frozen peas

6 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar

3 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 salmon filets, each about 6 ounces

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cook the rice, let it cool slightly and spoon into a bowl. Add the red onion, almonds and peas and toss ingredients to distribute them evenly. Combine the olive oil, sherry wine vinegar, orange juice, 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard, orange peel and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the rice, toss and let rest for at least 15 minutes. Place the salmon filets in a baking dish and brush each piece with some of the remaining mustard. Roast for about 15 minutes or until cooked to desired doneness. Spoon equal amounts of the rice on 4 plates. Top each with a piece of salmon and serve. Makes 4 servings

Loft's Butter Crunch

Which was better, Loft’s Butter Crunch or Loft’s Parleys?For you young ones, those are the two iconic candies once sold by Loft’s, a candy company that went out of business in 1990. I’ve been in mourning ever since.Their Butter Crunch was always my …

Which was better, Loft’s Butter Crunch or Loft’s Parleys?

For you young ones, those are the two iconic candies once sold by Loft’s, a candy company that went out of business in 1990. I’ve been in mourning ever since.

Their Butter Crunch was always my favorite. My brother insisted that the better choice was the Parley, a giant milk chocolate cigar looking thing with soft nougaty stuff inside.

Parleys were okay but Loft’s Butter Crunch was incomparable. The toffee was thick and brittle. It snapped when you broke it. The chocolate layer wasn’t overly thick so it didn’t detract from the candy part. And the nuts on the outside were tiny and soft, a sensational contrast to the velvety-tender chocolate and the crunchy center.

As well balanced as a dinner straight out of the government’s food pyramid.

I have tried for years to find a Butter Crunch as good as Loft’s, to no avail. There are fancier ones, made with single-estate chocolate or 70% cocoa chocolate. Some really expensive stuff and others from mass producers. Nothing comes close. I will grant you that Loft’s probably didn’t use great chocolate. It wasn’t your most upscale store. It sold modestly priced candies.

It’s just that their Butter Crunch was the best I ever ate.

When I was pregnant with my older daughter I refrained from sweets, to keep my weight at a decent level. But right after she was born I polished off the 2 boxes of Loft’s Butter Crunch that someone brought to me as a gift.

I’ve been experimenting making my own version lately. I made the ones in the photo yesterday to bring as a dinner gift this evening. These are good, so I’m posting the recipe. If you make them with milk chocolate and in a smaller cake pan (8”x8”) they’ll taste like Loft’s. Otherwise use dark chocolate of your choosing and use the larger pan — most people like the crunch part thinner than I do.

 

Butter Crunch

1 cup butter

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

2 tablespoons water

9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped (1-1/2 cups chocolate chips)

3/4 cup chopped lightly toasted almonds

Lightly butter a 9”x13” sheet cake pan. Place the butter, sugar, salt, corn syrup and water into a deep saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to bubble. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is golden brown (about 7-8 minutes) or until a candy thermometer reads 280 degrees. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and spread it out evenly. Immediately sprinkle the chocolate on top. Let it melt briefly, then use a spatula or the back of a large spoon to spread the chocolate evenly over the candy. Keep spreading until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Sprinkle the nuts on top and press them in lightly. Let cool until the chocolate is firm and set, about 2 hours. Break into pieces. Makes about 1-1/4 pounds

What Are You Reading?

fridayreads:

Yep, it’s that time again. Reblog this post and add a line about what you’re reading this week. You’ll be joining more than 5,000 readers who share their selections every week, AND you’ll be entered to win great prizes.

I’m reading the 1942 edition of The Good Housekeeping Cook Book, specifically the “Wartime Supplement” for some research I’m doing on old recipes. Really interesting historical perspective on food. #fridayreads

Salmon Spread

What do you do with leftover salmon?
I usually mash it up and make it into salad. Most of the time there’s just enough for one person, one sandwich, so it works out perfectly for lunch.
My mother used to make salmon croquettes. She’d mas…

What do you do with leftover salmon?

I usually mash it up and make it into salad. Most of the time there’s just enough for one person, one sandwich, so it works out perfectly for lunch.

My mother used to make salmon croquettes. She’d mash the salmon with egg and bread crumbs, shape the stuff into patties and fry them. Those were really good, especially hot, sandwiched with tomato slices and mayo on two pieces of hearty white bread (but of course I like most anything plus tomatoes and mayo on good white bread).

But yesterday I had some extra salmon and decided to make a quick hors d’oeuvre spread with it. It was de-lish, so I’ll make a batch Sunday to bring to my brother’s house to watch the Super Bowl. 

Here’s the recipe in case you need a quick, easy and versatile hors d’oeuvre. You can spread this on crackers or use it for crudites. The recipe is flexible. Taste it and add some sour cream to make it fluffier or lemon juice to make it more tangy or more fresh dill if you want more of a springlike, refreshing taste.

Salmon Spread

1 to 1-1/2 cups leftover cooked salmon

4 ounces cream cheese

2 medium scallions, chopped, including green part

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt 

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Scrape down sides of bowl once or twice to be sure to incorporate all ingredients. Makes about 1-1/2 cups

Chicken with Hoisin Sauce and Cashew Nuts

It’s a well known fact that Jewish people have an affinity for Chinese food. In fact, Elena Kagan, our newest Supreme Court Justice, even made a joke about it during her Senate hearings (when asked what she did the prior Christmas — a reference to the Christmas Day bomb plot in New York City — she said that she probably did what other Jews do on Christmas: eat out at a Chinese restaurant).

Why this particular love affair between a people and a cuisine? People have speculated lots of reasons (for example, Chinese cuisine uses little or no dairy, making it easy to avoid mixing meat and milk products in violation of the kosher dietary laws).

But ultimately it’s about the food itself. Chinese food is so delicious and there’s such variety as well as an abundance of interesting flavors, it’s difficult not to like, whatever your ethnic background!

When it came to Chinese food, my family was no different from so many others as I was growing up. The official day to eat it with your family was Sunday. Starting with Wonton Soup and Egg Rolls, you also ordered two from Column A, two from Column B. Stuff like Chow Mein and Fried Rice. Moo Goo Gai Pan. Char Shu Ding. Cantonese specialties. Tom’s, the place we went to, was typical: maroon vinyl booths to fit a family of four. 

This was before 1965, when immigration policy changed in the United States under LBJ. If you’re young you have no idea what a culinary (and demographic) revolution this caused. People from Szechuan, Hunan and other provinces of China came here and showed us Chinese food like we never had it before. We’d never known the likes of General’s Tzo’s Chicken and Kung Pao Gai Ding. We never heard of hoisin sauce.

A lifetime ago.

I still love the old and familiar foods of my childhood. A fresh, crispy egg roll. Lo Mein. 

But we save that for the occasional takeout. At home, I cook the other dishes: stirfries, interesting noodle recipes; main dishes that use flavorful ingredients such as hot chili peppers, fresh ginger and sesame oil.

To commemorate the Chinese New Year of the Hare, which begins on February 3rd, may I offer you my favorite recipe for Chicken with Hoisin Sauce and Cashews? It’s quick, easy and really tasty.

Chicken with Hoisin Sauce and Cashew Nuts

  • 4 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves

  • 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or sherry

  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch

  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce

  • 4 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 1/2 cup cut up water chestnuts

  • 1 cup cut up fresh mushrooms

  • 1/2 cup cut up green bell pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

  • 1/3 cup cashew nuts

Cut the chicken into bite size pieces into a bowl. Add the rice wine, cornstarch and soy sauce and mix the ingredients well to coat the chicken pieces evenly. Preheat a wok or stirfry pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and swirl the pan to coat the bottom and sides. Add the water chestnuts, mushrooms and bell pepper pieces and stirfry for about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the salt, toss, dish out and set aside. Reheat the pan and add the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add the chicken and stirfry for 2-3 minutes or until all the pieces are white and there are no traces of pink. Add the hoisin sauce and mix it in thoroughly. Return the vegetables to the pan and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Add the nuts and toss the ingredients. Dish out and serve.

Makes 4 servings

Hot Dog en Croute

Everyone I know likes franks-in-blankets, even the people who are embarrassed to admit it. The proof is that whenever I serve them not one is left over.
But sometimes franks-in-blankets can be dry and over done, so I like to make a large one. That w…

Everyone I know likes franks-in-blankets, even the people who are embarrassed to admit it. The proof is that whenever I serve them not one is left over.

But sometimes franks-in-blankets can be dry and over done, so I like to make a large one. That way people can cut themselves a piece or two or more. I know it’s a bit fancy, but it does look good and when you make one large frank-in-blanket the meat stays moist and juicy.  

Hebrew National makes super large frankfurters that are the perfect size for this particular dish. For a version that’s even fancier though, use a hunk of kielbasa instead of a hot dog. 

A football fan friend of mine says that chili con carne and guacamole aside, no Superbowl get together is complete without franks-in-blankets. So here’s a quick and easy recipe you can use if you’ll be having a get-together for the game.

Hot Dog en Croute

piece of puff pastry 8-inches x 8-1/2-inches

1-1/2 teaspoons deli mustard

1 extra large Hebrew National hot dog (quarter-pounder)

1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Thaw the puff pastry but work with it while it is still cold. Place the pastry on a lightly floured surface. Spread the mustard down the length in the center, almost to the short edges. Place the frankfurter on top and roll it in the dough to enclose it. Cut the short edges almost completely, but leave enough to seal the short ends closed. Place the hot-dog-pastry on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Use the scraps of cut dough to make designs, if desired, and place these on top of the dough. Brush lightly with some of the egg. Bake for 20-22 minutes or until golden brown. Cut with a serrated knife. Makes one large frank-in-blanket making 3-4 servings

Scallion Cakes

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If the Giants or Jets aren’t playing I’m not much interested in the Superbowl. It might have been okay if the New England Patriots were in it, since I live in New England, sort of (a lot of Yankees consider us lower Fairfield county folks New England-imposters). And maybe even if the Bears were in it because I went to college at Northwestern, in Evanston, Illinois and spent 4 years cheering on Da Bears, Cubs, White Sox, etc.

Frankly, Green Bay and Pittsburgh? Not interested so much. 

But we always go to my brother and sister-in-law’s house on Superbowl Sunday. It’s been a tradition for years and years now, whether or not we watch the game or just switch TV channels occasionally to see who’s winning. They have an enormous TV that makes you feel as if you are in the stadium. Jeff makes the best fireplace fire and also the best popcorn (he uses an entire stick of butter). Eileen will surely make a turkey breast and fixins. So I guess my contribution will be hors d’oeuvre.

Instead of the usual guacamole or salsa, I’ll bring Scallion Cakes. They’re crispy wedges of fried dough filled with little bits of chopped scallions sprinkled judiciously with crunchy particles of kosher salt. Believe me, these things are like potato chips. You can never eat just one. I better make a double recipe to have in my freezer for when my kids come to visit. You don’t even have to defrost them — reheat them in a single layer in a preheated 425 degree oven for a few minutes on each side until they’re hot.

Scallion Cakes

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 1/3 cup cold water
  • vegetable oil
  • 4-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 3 scallions, finely chopped

Place the flour in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the boiling water and mix at medium speed until a rough dough has formed. Let cool for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the cold water and mix until the dough forms into a ball. Knead for 4-5 minutes or until smooth and elastic (you can do all this in a food processor). Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Using a rolling pin on a lightly floured surface, roll one piece of dough into a 10-inch circle. Brush the dough with about 1-1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil. Sprinkle with about 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Sprinkle with about one tablespoon of the chopped scallion. Roll the circle jelly roll style. Form the rolled dough into a coil. Press down on the coil to flatten it slightly. Roll the coil into circles about 1/8-inch thick (don’t worry if some of the dough breaks and the scallions pop through slightly). Repeat with the remaining dough, salt and scallions. Keep the circles separated. Heat a small amount of vegetable oil in a skillet large enough to hold the circles. Cover the pan and cook each circle, one at a time, over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes per side, or until browned and crispy. Add more vegetable oil to the pan as necessary for each circle of dough. Drain the fried circles on paper towels. Cut each circle into 8 wedges. Serve hot. Makes 48 pieces

Devil Dogs

A few days ago, because of the snow, it took me 50 minutes to drive from my house to the highway, a distance that usually takes about 6 minutes. This kind of ride is incredibly frustrating, especially if you actually have to be somewhere, which I did. And even though I had given myself what I thought was ample extra time, I was late anyway.

To avoid total anxiety and angry thoughts during the drive I decided not to tune in to talk radio, which I sometimes do just to see what the crazies are saying. And I didn’t turn on my music CDs because I’ve heard them a little too often lately and keep forgetting to change them.

I started to play those mind games you play when you’re bored. Like “if you could only take 10 books/films/music, etc. to a desert island, which would you choose?” Or, “who was the most influential person of the 20th century?”

Only I wasn’t feeling that I could handle an intellectual challenge so my thoughts turned to this: if Americans are so in love with chocolate, with practically everyone I know saying they are “chocaholics” then how come Twinkies were always more popular than Devil Dogs?

Personally I preferred Devil Dogs as a kid, even though I have always been more a vanilla loving person than a chocolate one. But I also have to say that the last Devil Dog I bought was when I was about 9 and when I opened the package and ants started crawling out I threw it away and have not eaten once since.

I’m not sure why Devil Dogs were called that. As I recall they don’t look like Devil’s food cake, which is like chocolate cake, but redder in color for a variety of reasons (usually made with cocoa instead of melted chocolate, more baking soda, and so on). But it got me thinking about making a devil’s food cake. I don’t have a great recipe of my own, so I’m going to try a few from other people and see what turns up. If I wind up with a recipe I like maybe I’ll even make my own homemade Devil Dogs.

My first try will be this one from Smitten Kitchen:

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:rD816Uxgr98J:smittenkitchen.com/2008/02/homemade-devil-dog-ding-dong-or-hostess-cake/+devil’s+dog+devil’s+food%3F&cd=8&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us