Peach Ice Cream Redux: French Fries

Made a mistake — it’s not National Peach Ice Cream Day! That’s not until the 17th. Today is French Fry Day.

My niece once came to visit and when she went home she reported the good news about staying at our house: “Aunt Ronnie makes French fries with a potato!”

She thought all french fries came from a box.

Here are the most important tips to making good french fries:

Use russet potatoes

Make sure you wipe the strips dry before you fry them

Make sure the cooking oil is hot before you immerse the potatoes (throw in a crumb of bread and see it sizzle)

Don’t add too many strips of potato at one time (that will cool down the oil too much and the fries will be greasy)

Fry the strips halfway. Remove them with a big basket or skimmer above the oil for a few seconds, then return them to the oil. That lets them cook inside without burning outside.

Drain on paper towels.

Try them without ketchup. I know that sounds like heresy but good french fries only need salt.

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National Peach Ice Cream Day

The biggest fan of peach ice cream I ever knew was my Uncle Irving. He was tall and handsome and blessed with thick, auburn hair, a baseball enthusiast and not given to rhapsodizing about food. But his one real culinary passion was fresh peach ice cream. You could only buy it during the summer, he told me and his daughter, my best friend and cousin Leslie. So, sometime around the middle of July he would walk down the street to the local grocer and buy a carton of Breyer’s. “The first of the season,” he would tell us, with authority.

"You can’t get fresh peach ice cream any other time and it wouldn’t be worth eating anyway, even if you could" he also insisted.

I remember how he showed us the chunks of real Georgia (he said) peaches. Not just peach flavor or flecks of peach. It had real pieces of peach in a vanilla base. It was creamy and it tasted like good peaches, with that floral smell that lets you know summer is ripe and will be for many more weeks.

Today may be National Peach Ice Cream Day, but peach ice cream is a treat that’s summer-long. I learned that many many years ago from my uncle.

Peach ice cream is the kind of thing you eat by itself. It’s too delicate for fudge sauce, sprinkles or marshmallow fluff. If you have an ice cream making machine it’s also easy to make at home and you can add nice size chunks of fruit, just like in the old days.

Homemade Peach Ice Cream

  • 6 medium ripe peaches, peeled, pit removed
  • 1 cup sugar, preferably superfine sugar
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 2-inch piece vanilla bean
  • 2 cups whipping cream
  • 5 large egg yolks
  • pinch of salt
  • 2 cups whole milk

Chop the peaches into small chunks. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup of the sugar and the lemon juice. Toss the ingredients and set aside for at least 30 minutes. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, place it in a saucepan with the whipping cream and cook over medium heat for a few minutes until hot, and bubbles form around the sides of the pan (do not boil). Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes. In a larger saucepan, place the egg yolks, remaining sugar and salt and beat using a hand mixer at medium speed for 4-5 minutes, or until the mixture is thick and pale in color. Remove the vanilla bean from the hot cream. Gradually pour the hot cream into the egg-sugar mixture and stir (use a wooden spoon or other similar utensil, not a whisk or beater) until the mixture is well blended. Return the saucepan to the cooktop and cook over low-medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 12-15 minutes or until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat. Stir in the milk. Chill in the refrigerator. Stir in the peach mixture. Place in an ice cream maker and churn according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes about 1-1/2 quarts

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Pecan Pie - or is it?

For some reason today is National Pecan Pie Day. Somehow I always associate Pecan Pie with Thanksgiving, but who cares. Pecan Pie is a wonder of sugar and nuts and the kind of sweet-tooth satisfier that you can eat anytime.

Unfortunately, we can’t at my house. My daughter is extremely allergic to pecans, so over the years I have made Pecan Pie without the pecans.

We’ve had Cashew pie. Almond Pie. Macadamia, Peanut, Hazelnut.

As the ancient philosopher philosophized: necessity is the Mother of invention.

So, for National Pecan Pie Day, here’s a recipe for Honey Hazelnut Pie.

Honey Hazelnut Pie

2/3 cup honey

1/3 cup sugar

3 large eggs

3 tablespoons melted butter

1-1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup chopped dried apricots

1 cup chopped hazelnuts

1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust

Preheat the oven the 350 degrees. Combine the honey, sugar, eggs and melted butter in a bowl and whisk the ingredients until well blended. Stir in the flour, ginger, salt and vanilla extract and blend in thoroughly. Stir in the apricots and hazelnuts. Pour the mixture into the pie crust. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the top is richly brown and crunchy. Makes one pie

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National Blueberry Muffin Day

Today is National Blueberry Muffin Day. JOY! I’ve got a load of blueberries and a good recipe. Here it is:

Blueberry Muffins

  • 4 tablespoons butter

  • 1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1/4 cup sugar

  • 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

  • 1 tablespoon grated fresh orange peel

  • 1 cup buttermilk or stirred plain yogurt

  • 1 large egg

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

  • 1 cup blueberries

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place 10 muffin liners inside a muffin pan or lightly grease the hollows. Melt the butter and set aside to cool. Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, baking soda and orange peel in a bowl. Stir to combine ingredients thoroughly. In a second bowl mix the buttermilk, egg, vanilla extract and melted butter. Pour into the flour mixture and mix just to combine ingredients (it will be very thick). Fold in the blueberries. Spoon into the muffin tins, about 2/3 the way up. Bake for 22-25 minutes or until browned and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean.

Makes 10

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Fresh Dutch Pea Soup

Have to be fair. Yesterday I gave a recipe for Gazpacho, a soup from Spain to serve for World Cup watching. Now on to the Netherlands. I’ve been working on a recipe for a summer version of Dutch pea soup. Dutch Pea Soup (Erwtensoep) is thick an…

Have to be fair. Yesterday I gave a recipe for Gazpacho, a soup from Spain to serve for World Cup watching. 

Now on to the Netherlands. I’ve been working on a recipe for a summer version of Dutch pea soup. Dutch Pea Soup (Erwtensoep) is thick and smoky, made with dried peas and a ham hock or bacon. It’s one of my favorite winter soups but it’s too heavy for a summer day.

Here’s the one I came up with. It has fresh peas and it’s as light as a feather. I’ve made it with yogurt and buttermilk. Either way, the recipe works, and it’s very refreshing. The jewel green color is lovely too. To get that smoky flavor of Erwtensoep use some bacon — but you can also substitute fake bacon (Morningstar Farm soy strips).

I had a friend once, a much older woman named Ro whose family escaped Holland during World War II. She always said she hated Dutch Pea Soup. She was such a gracious and gentle woman and yet when she talked about pea soup she would get an impossibly angry look on her face. One day she told me about the time when she was a young girl and her mother served pea soup. She didn’t want to eat it. Her father made her sit at the table for hours and hours, past her bedtime and she kept refusing to eat. Finally she fell asleep at the table and when she woke up the pea soup was still there. She finally gave in and ate the soup, now cold, for breakfast. But she never ate pea soup again.

Ro is gone now but I would like to think she would try — and even enjoy — this recipe.

Summer Dutch Pea Soup

4 ounces Morningstar Farms veggie bacon

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 large Yukon Gold potato, peeled and chopped

6 cups vegetable stock

6 cups shelled fresh peas or 3 (10-ounce) packages frozen peas

3/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

extra plain yogurt or dairy sour cream or creme fraiche

Cook the bacon in a soup pot for 5-6 minutes over medium heat or until it is crispy. Remove the bacon and all but a film of fat from the pan. Crumble the bacon and set aside. Pour the olive oil into the pan. Add the onion and potato and cook, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, bring to a simmer, cover the pan and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potato has softened. Add the peas. Cover and cook for another 3 minutes. Remove the cover and remove the pan from the heat and let cool. Puree the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Whisk in the yogurt. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with a blob of yogurt or sour cream and some of the crumbled bacon. Makes 6 servings

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Gazpacho, World Cup Winner

Doesn’t matter who you’re rooting for in the World Cup final between Spain and the Netherlands. Gazpacho is a Spanish soup but it’s an all around winner and almost everyone loves it, so it’s a good dish to serve to friends who might be watching the game with you Sunday.

The first time I ever tried Gazpacho was right after my brother Jeff and sister-in-law Eileen returned from their honeymoon in Spain and they invited the family over for dinner. Eileen, who’s good at lots of stuff, will be the first to admit that she’s not such a great cook. But she was determined to make Gazpacho for us.

It took her seven hours, not including the shopping. In her effort to make the dish the authentic way, she traveled to a distant neighborhood to find perfect produce from a Spanish market, hand-chopped the vegetables rather than use a food processor and ground the bread and herbs using a mortar and pestle that she borrowed from her grandmother. 

The soup was fabulous. Plump, ripe, fruity summer tomatoes. Crunchy bell peppers. Icy-crisp sweet cucumbers. Homemade, well-seasoned croutons.

She never made it again. And once we heard how long it took her no one asked for the recipe. Who would bother??

A few years ago, for a food column, I played around with Eileen’s recipe. I wanted readers to be able to make this recipe — the easy way. It still requires several steps, but it won’t take you seven hours to make. Here’s the modern, still-tasting-authentic version. You might have to do this in portions, depending on the size of your food processor.

Food Processor Andalusian Gazpacho

The Soup:

5 ripe tomatoes

1 cucumber

1 green bell pepper

4 slices homestyle white bread, torn into small pieces

2 large cloves garlic

1 medium onion, cut into chunks

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup water

salt to taste

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

3 cups tomato juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or oregano

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Croutons (or use packaged):

4 slices homestyle white bread

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

salt to taste

Garnish:

chopped green bell pepper, scallions, cucumber and fresh chili pepper

To make the soup, cut the tomatoes in half, crosswise and squeeze out the seeds. Chop the tomatoes and set aside. Peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Chop the cucumber and set aside. Remove the stem and top of the bell pepper, cut in half and remove the seeds and pith. Chop the pepper and set aside. Place the bread, garlic cloves, onion and olive oil in a food processor. Process until finely minced. Scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice during the process. Add the water and a shake of salt and process for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes, cucumber and bell pepper and process to the desired consistency. Pour into a large bowl and add the wine vinegar, tomato juice, basil or oregano and parsley. Refrigerate for at least one hour to let flavors blend. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve soup topped with croutons and garnish on the side. Makes 6 servings

To make croutons: trim the crusts from the bread and dice the slices. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread. Sprinkle with basil and salt to taste. Cook, tossing the bread occasionally, for several minutes until the dice are toasty brown. Dish out and set aside.

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Spicy Corn Fritters

foodforjubilee:

Spicy Corn Fritters | droolfactor

Photo of a stack of crispy corn fritters greeted me as I went to Tumblr this morning. I haven’t eaten corn fritters in years and this brought back some delicious memories. My mother used to m…

foodforjubilee:

Spicy Corn Fritters | droolfactor

Photo of a stack of crispy corn fritters greeted me as I went to Tumblr this morning. I haven’t eaten corn fritters in years and this brought back some delicious memories. My mother used to make corn fritters all the time and serve them with fried chicken. (She made the best fried chicken.)

Her recipe isn’t as sophisticated as this one, which has cumin and coriander and a spicy dipping sauce.

Her fritters were a more old fashioned Southern style and she served them with maple syrup. They were memorable, so I’m posting the recipe. Easy to cook and the are really terrific with any meat or vegetable you grill over the summer.

Corn Fritters

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoon melted butter

1 cup corn kernels (fresh or thawed frozen)

vegetable oil for frying

maple syrup

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar into a bowl. In a second bowl, beat the egg, milk and melted butter together. Add the liquids to the flour mixture. Fold in the corn kernels. Heat enough vegetable oil in a large saute pan to come 1/4-inch up the side. Cook over medium-high heat until hot enough to make a bread crumb sizzle. Drop the corn batter by heaping tablespoonful onto the batter, leaving at least 1/2-inch space between fritters. Fry for about 2 minutes per side or until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels and serve with maple syrup. Makes 6 servings

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Lemonade, all sorts

You know American capitalism is alive and well when July 4th comes around and you see kids selling lemonade on the street. My daughter Gillian did it, with her friend Dana to help her (and potentially earn half the profits). They used an upside down crate and made two simple signs. One said “Homemade Lemonade 15 cents.” The other said “Best Lemonade.” (It was.)

Unfortunately we lived down a glen where there was literally no traffic on our road. The only cars that came and went were our neighbors (3 of them) and only one neighbor could actually see into our driveway.

There were no profits. But there was a lot of fun and the enthusiasm factor was high.

They also had a good recipe. They didn’t open a can of frozen concentrate or mix some crystals and water. They made lemonade from —- lemons! And sugar. It was delish. Tangy but sweet.

What better drink to drink on July 4th weekend than some good old-fashioned American lemonade. The real thing, from scratch. Frozen and packaged lemonade can’t compare.

You can make lemonade concentrate and keep it for days and days in the fridge. And if you have the basic concentrate you can also make variations easily — like Spice Lemonade or even “adult” versions like Yellow Jacket Lemonade (with tequila or vodka).

Try some. Here are a couple of recipes.

Old Fashioned Lemonade

1-1/2 cups water

1-1/2 cups sugar

grated rind of one large lemon

1-1/2 cups fresh lemon juice

ice cubes

cold water or seltzer

Place the 1-1/2 cups water and the sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 3 minutes. Add the lemon rind and lemon juice and stir. Let cool, then place in the refrigerator and let cool completely. Strain the mixture. Keep refrigerated until ready to make individual glasses of lemonade. To make the lemonade, place some ice cubes in a glass, fill 1/3 of the way up with some of the cold lemon syrup. Add cold water or seltzer, stir and drink. Makes about 8 servings

(Alternatively, pour the cold syrup into a pitcher and fill with water or seltzer and some ice cubes.)

Spice Lemonade

4 cups water

3-inch piece cinnamon stick

6 whole cloves

6 allspice berries

1-1/2 cups lemonade syrup

Place the water, cinnamon stick, cloves and allspice berries in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain the liquid into a pitcher. Add the lemonade syrup. Stir to mix thoroughly. Chill in the refrigerator until cold. Pour into glasses half filled with ice. Makes about 8 servings

Yellow Jacket Lemonade

3 cups homemade lemonade

1 cup tequila or vodka

2 cups ice water, approximately

1 sliced lemon

Mix the lemonade and vodka or tequila and pour into a pitcher half filled with ice cubes. Mix in 2 cups water (taste and add more water as preferred). Add lemon slices. Makes about 8 servings

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Rebecca Chan's Challah

You don’t have to be Jewish to bake challah.
The other day I was shopping at Fairway in Harlem in Manhattan and overheard two young women talking. One one of them said she loved loved loved challah, which she had recently tried, and would like…

You don’t have to be Jewish to bake challah.

The other day I was shopping at Fairway in Harlem in Manhattan and overheard two young women talking. One one of them said she loved loved loved challah, which she had recently tried, and would like to learn how to bake one.

I couldn’t resist saying something. I wasn’t exactly eavesdropping — they were talking loud enough for everyone around them to hear and I was right next to them at the olive bar. So I excused myself for breaking into their conversation and told the one who loved challah that I was a food writer and had a great recipe. That I would email the recipe if she wanted.

She did. I sent my recipe.

Two days later Rebecca Chan had not only baked two challahs successfully, but was thrilled enough to take this photo. She said the breads were delicious and would make them again.

I was thrilled she had actually tried her hand at challah so quickly.

But when it comes to challah, you just can’t wait.

So, for everyone out there who wants to make homemade challah, here’s my recipe. I suggest baking it a bit longer than Rebecca did — it needs to be a bit darker. But this is a terrific first challah if you ask me.

Kudos Rebecca!!! Keep baking!!

Challah

2 packages active dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water (about 105 degrees; feels slightly warm to touch)

1/2 cup sugar

8 cups flour, approximately

1 tablespoon salt

5 large eggs

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1-1/2 cups warm water (about 105 degrees)

poppy seeds or sesame seeds, optional

In a small bowl, mix the yeast, 1/2 cup water, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and a pinch of flour. Stir and set aside for about 5 minutes or until the mixture is bubbly. While the yeast is resting, place 7-1/2 cups flour with the remaining sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook. Add 4 of the eggs, the vegetable oil and the 1-1/2 cups water. Mix using the dough hook until well combined. Add the yeast mixture and blend in thoroughly. Knead (at medium-high speed) until the dough is smooth and elastic (3-4 minutes). Add more flour as needed to make the dough smooth and soft, but not overly sticky. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a warm place for about 1-1/2 hours or until doubled in bulk. Punch the dough down, cover the bowl and let rise again for about 45 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Remove the dough to a floured surface. Cut the dough into 3 or 6 pieces depending on whether you are going to make one large or two smaller loaves. Make long strands out of each piece. Braid the strands and seal the ends together by pressing on the dough. Place the bread(s) on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Beat the last egg. Brush the surface with some of the egg. Sprinkle with seeds if desired. Let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. While the dough is in the last rise, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for about 30 minutes for one large bread, 22-25 minutes for two smaller breads. They should be firm and golden brown. Makes one large or two smaller challahs

NOTE: you can make the dough in a food processor — cut the recipe in half

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